tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36370908999901910502024-03-04T20:59:53.824-08:00Arquitectura de Computadores 10º Anoprof. Máriohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13538472024237273816noreply@blogger.comBlogger182125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3637090899990191050.post-36613424324151971282009-07-25T11:37:00.000-07:002009-07-25T11:38:31.137-07:00Droide M.L.P.<div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://dme.uma.pt/projects/droide/nxtsdk_doc/index.html"><img src="http://dme.uma.pt/projects/droide/nxtsdk_doc/images/nxt_img.PNG" /></a></div><div id="mainimg" align="center"> <h3 style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"><span style="font-size:180%;"><a href="http://dme.uma.pt/projects/droide/nxtsdk_doc/index.html">Droide <em>M.L.P.</em></a></span> </h3> <h4><a href="http://dme.uma.pt/projects/droide/nxtsdk_doc/index.html">Plataforma Multi Linguagens para o Kit Lego® Mindstorms® NXT </a></h4> </div>prof. Máriohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13538472024237273816noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3637090899990191050.post-70738239949892108192009-07-25T11:35:00.000-07:002009-07-25T11:36:13.785-07:00Robot Fácil com Arduino<div style="text-align: center;"><a linkindex="0" href="http://lab.guilhermemartins.net/primeiro-robot-com-arduino-1%C2%AA-parte/"><img src="http://guilhermemartins.net/lab_files/header_1.jpg" usemap="#Map" border="0" height="135" width="1024" /></a></div>prof. Máriohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13538472024237273816noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3637090899990191050.post-10493871131031498962009-07-25T11:31:00.000-07:002009-07-25T11:34:39.652-07:00Bob's Arduino electronics projects<h4 style="text-align: center; font-family: arial;"><a href="http://www.lisbonne.com/arduino/"><span style="font-size:180%;">Bob's </span></a><a href="http://www.lisbonne.com/arduino/"><span style="font-size:180%;"></span></a><span style="font-size:180%;"><a linkindex="0">Arduino</a> electronics projects</span></h4>prof. Máriohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13538472024237273816noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3637090899990191050.post-60325986311328813492009-07-25T11:29:00.000-07:002009-07-25T11:30:19.128-07:00Aarduino Projects<div style="text-align: center;"><a linkindex="0" href="http://www.arduinoprojects.com/" title="arduinoprojects.com"><img style="width: 95px; height: 95px;" src="http://www.arduinoprojects.com/sites/all/themes/easybreeze/logo.png" alt="arduinoprojects.com" /></a></div><h1 style="text-align: center;" class="site-name"><a linkindex="1" href="http://www.arduinoprojects.com/" title="arduinoprojects.com">arduinoprojects.com</a></h1>prof. Máriohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13538472024237273816noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3637090899990191050.post-44967317949140335192009-07-25T11:25:00.000-07:002009-07-25T11:27:22.570-07:00Cool Circuits Collection<a linkindex="0" href="http://www.coolcircuit.com/"><img src="http://www.coolcircuit.com/img/logo.gif" alt="Home" border="0" height="60" width="250" /></a>prof. Máriohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13538472024237273816noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3637090899990191050.post-20148229947677751292009-07-11T11:45:00.001-07:002009-07-11T11:46:42.884-07:00Inscrições On-Line<div style="text-align: center; color: rgb(255, 255, 153);"><span style="font-weight: bold;font-family:verdana;" ><span style="font-size:6;"> <span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 102);">Inscrições On-Line</span><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 102);">Escola Secundária Augusto Cabrita</span></span></span><br /><span style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"><a linkindex="0" href="http://cabrita.sytes.net:3580/matricula/finscreve.htm"><span style=";font-family:Forte;font-size:6;" >Matricula Provisória </span></a></span><b style="color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"> <a linkindex="1" href="http://cabrita.sytes.net:3580/matricula/finscreve.htm"><span style=";font-family:Forte;font-size:130%;" > </span></a></b><br /><b style="color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"><a linkindex="1" href="http://cabrita.sytes.net:3580/matricula/finscreve.htm"><span style=";font-family:Forte;font-size:130%;" >(Clica aqui)</span></a></b><br /></div> <p style="text-align: center; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"><b><span style=";font-family:Forte;font-size:6;" > <a linkindex="2" href="http://esac.sytes.net:3580/JP/JPed_participa"> 2009-2010</a></span></b></p> <div style="text-align: center; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"> </div> <div style="text-align: center; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"> </div> <div style="text-align: center; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"> </div> <p style="text-align: center; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"> <b><span style=";font-family:Forte;font-size:6;" >Cursos Profissionais </span></b><span style=";font-family:Forte;font-size:6;" ><b>de Informática</b></span></p>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03515312546652168657noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3637090899990191050.post-16510885250401671722009-07-11T11:44:00.001-07:002009-07-11T11:44:57.193-07:00Inscrições On-Line<div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana; font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-size:6;color:#99ccff;"><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"> Inscrições On-Line<br />Escola Secundária Augusto Cabrita</span></span></span><br /><i><b><span style="font-family:Forte;font-size:6;color:#99ccff;"><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"></span></span></b></i><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-weight: bold;"><a style="color: rgb(102, 0, 0);" linkindex="0" href="http://cabrita.sytes.net:3580/matricula/finscreve.htm"><span style="font-family:Forte;font-size:6;">Matricula Provisória </span></a></span><b style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"> <a linkindex="1" href="http://cabrita.sytes.net:3580/matricula/finscreve.htm"><span style="font-family:Forte;font-size:130%;"> </span></a></b><br /><b style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"><a linkindex="1" href="http://cabrita.sytes.net:3580/matricula/finscreve.htm"><span style="font-family:Forte;font-size:130%;">(Clica aqui)</span></a></b><br /></div> <p style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-family:Forte;font-size:6;color:#ffffff;"> <a linkindex="2" href="http://esac.sytes.net:3580/JP/JPed_participa"><span style="color:#ffff00;"> 2009-2010</span></a></span></b></p> <div style="text-align: center;"> </div> <div style="text-align: center;"> </div> <div style="text-align: center;"> </div> <p style="text-align: center;"> <b><span style="font-family:Forte;font-size:6;color:#ff0000;">Cursos Profissionais </span></b><span style="font-family:Forte;font-size:6;color:#ff0000;"><b>de Informática</b></span></p>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03515312546652168657noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3637090899990191050.post-33698594230838128722009-05-08T14:02:00.000-07:002009-05-08T14:13:40.400-07:00Lançamento do OpenOffice.org 3.1.0<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsQUF6Y0hLuMoXYqXtXpsoEvWy30TDFNWdGQL7VhikPvDD9yeQmZ1Qxg86yaqxr3d4n45V_XxeupIelbWtjMcJx3lInKQKzEyltgimBc1EXUOY9luJTJ2y4vpPYKVG84morU_vfyKPUWE9/s1600-h/logo-openoffice.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 278px; height: 189px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsQUF6Y0hLuMoXYqXtXpsoEvWy30TDFNWdGQL7VhikPvDD9yeQmZ1Qxg86yaqxr3d4n45V_XxeupIelbWtjMcJx3lInKQKzEyltgimBc1EXUOY9luJTJ2y4vpPYKVG84morU_vfyKPUWE9/s400/logo-openoffice.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5333562808230402018" border="0" /></a><span style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" ><span style="color: rgb(255, 204, 0);"><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">A Comunidade Portuguesa do OpenOffice.org anuncia hoje a disponibilidade da versão portuguesa do OpenOffice.org 3.1, em simultâneo com as outras versões oficiais. Graças a uma colaboração entre a Sun Microsystems Portugal e a</span> </span><span style="color: rgb(204, 102, 204);font-size:180%;" >Escola Secundária Augusto Cabrita,</span> </span><span style="font-family:arial;">e no âmbito de um protocolo de colaboração entre o Ministério da Educação, esta versão portuguesa foi sujeita antecipadamente a todos os testes de qualidade e está disponível para download em todo o mundo, quer no site oficial htttp://</span><a style="font-family: arial;" linkindex="48" href="http://www.openoffice.org/" target="_blank">www.openoffice.org</a><span style="font-family:arial;"> quer no site português </span><a style="font-family: arial;" linkindex="49" href="http://pt.openoffice.org/" target="_blank">http://pt.openoffice.org</a><br />.<br /><span style="font-family:arial;">Este facto demonstra o crescente empenhamento da sociedade portuguesa numa alternativa credível e de qualidade para uma ferramenta de tratamento de texto, folha de cálculo, apresentações, desenho, e base de dados para utilização pessoal e empresarial.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;"> A versão 3.1 do OpenOffice.org é uma actualização significativa para a aplicação líder mundial em produtividade de escritório (Office) de código aberto. Desde que a versão 3.0 do OpenOffice.org foi lançada em Outubro passado, mais de 50 milhões de downloads foram registadas a partir do site oficial do OpenOffice.org. Lançado em mais de 90 línguas e disponível gratuitamente em todas as principais plataformas de computadores, o OpenOffice.org 3.1 parece destinado a bater este recorde.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;"> A Comunidade do OpenOffice.org tem estado a ouvir os seus utilizadores. Estes foram convidados a votar nas características "mais desejadas", e o resultado já ajudou a moldar este novo lançamento. Esta nova versão inclui também um mecanismo opcional que permite que os utilizadores informem a equipa de desenvolvimento sobre como é utilizado o OpenOffice.org</span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;"> A maior mudança (meio milhão de linhas de código!) e a mais visível é a renovação da qualidade gráfica do OpenOffice.org . Os mais técnicos denominam-na de "anti-aliasing" - os utilizadores normais apreciarão a melhor qualidade gráfica de todas as imagens. As melhorias estendem-se a outras mudanças mais subtis, como a forma como as imagens são mantidas enquanto estão a ser arrastadas, a forma de destacar as selecções de texto, e a adição da capacidade de sobrepor linhas a texto ("sobrelinhar"..) . </span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;"> As características principais desta versão incluem:</span><br /><br /><b style="font-family: arial;">Processamento de texto </b><br /><span style="font-family:arial;"> * Melhorias nos comentários: os comentários respondidos são apresentados como "conversas"</span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;"> * Maior integração do verificador gramatical </span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;"> * Numeração de destaques dentro de parágrafos para documentos complexos </span><br /><br /><b style="font-family: arial;">Folha de cálculo</b><br /><span style="font-family:arial;"> * Dicas para fórmulas, com novas e melhores fórmulas disponíveis </span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;"> * Melhoria nos ordenamentos</span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;"> * Remoção de estrangulamentos ao desempenho</span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;"> * Cursor deslizante de tamanho de imagem adicionado à barra de estado</span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;"> * Mudança de nome de folhas com clique duplo </span><br /><br /><b style="font-family: arial;">Gráficos</b><br /><span style="font-family:arial;"> * Posicionamento flexível dos eixos para os utilizadores científicos e educativos </span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;"> * Gestão flexível dos pontos de dados "não existentes"</span><br /><br /><b style="font-family: arial;">Apresentação</b><br /><span style="font-family:arial;"> * Botão de tamanho dos caracteres</span><br /><br /><b style="font-family: arial;">Base de Dados</b><br /><span style="font-family:arial;"> * Destaque da sintaxe SQL</span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;"> * Implementação mais fácil de aplicações macro</span><br /><br /><b style="font-family: arial;">Internacionalização e Localização </b><br /><span style="font-family:arial;"> * Melhor suporte para escrita bidireccional </span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;"> * Suporte a novas línguas </span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;"> O OpenOffice.org também tem agora um melhor dispositivo de controlo de acesso em simultâneo a ficheiros , permitindo aos utilizadores partilhar arquivos com segurança em ambientes multi-plataforma.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;"> "O OpenOffice.org 3.1 demonstra que estamos a ouvir os nossos utilizadores, e que graças ao empenho de longo prazo dos nossos apoiantes, podemos investir o tempo e esforço necessários para fazer mudanças significativas no software, "disse John McCreesh, líder de Marketing do OpenOffice.org. "O OpenOffice.org tem todas as características que os utilizadores querem, é fácil de usar e gratuito. Apelamos a todos para que o descarregam e o experimentem ainda hoje."</span><br /><br /><b style="font-family: arial;">Download</b><br /><span style="font-family:arial;"> O OpenOffice.org 3.1 está disponivel para download gratuito a partir de </span><br /><a style="font-family: arial;" linkindex="50" href="http://pt.openoffice.org/" target="_blank">http://pt.openoffice.org</a><span style="font-family:arial;"> ou de </span><a style="font-family: arial;" linkindex="51" href="http://download.openoffice.org/" target="_blank">http://download.openoffice.org</a><br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;"> Guia de novas funcionalidades </span><br /><a style="font-family: arial;" linkindex="52" href="http://www.openoffice.org/dev_docs/features/3.1/index.html" target="_blank">http://www.openoffice.org/dev_<wbr>docs/features/3.1/index.html</a><br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;"> Corrector ortográfico e dicionário de sinónimos português</span><br /><a style="font-family: arial;" linkindex="53" href="http://pt.openoffice.org/download/dics.htm" target="_blank">http://pt.openoffice.org/<wbr>download/dics.htm</a><br /><br /><b style="font-family: arial;"> Sobre o OpenOffice.org </b><br /><span style="font-family:arial;"> A Comunidade OpenOffice.org é uma equipa internacional de voluntários e empresas, incluindo a fundadora Sun Microsystems, a Novell, a Red Hat, a IBM, a Google e a Red Flag, que desenvolvem, traduzem, apoiam e promovem a suite de produtividade de código aberto OpenOffice.org.</span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;"> O OpenOffice.org usa o OpenDocument Format, uma norma internacional (ISO/IEC 26300 ), bem como os formatos de arquivos clássicos, como os do Microsoft Office. Está disponível nas principais plataformas de computação em mais de 90 idiomas. </span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;"> O software OpenOffice.org é fornecido sob a licença “Lesser GNU Public Licence” (LGPL), e pode ser utilizado gratuitamente, para qualquer propósito, privado ou comercial. </span><br /><br /><b style="font-family: arial;">O OpenOffice.org em Portugal</b><br /><span style="font-family:arial;"> A Comunidade Portuguesa do OpenOffice.org conta com a colaboração de vários voluntários, e das empresas Caixa Mágica Software, Intraneia e Sun Microsystems.</span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;"> Mantém um sítio em língua portuguesa: </span><a style="font-family: arial;" linkindex="54" href="http://pt.openoffice.org/" target="_blank">http://pt.openoffice.org</a><br /><span style="font-family:arial;"> Pode ser contactada através do e-mail: </span><a style="font-family: arial;" href="mailto:marketing@pt.openoffice.org" target="_blank">marketing@pt.openoffice.org</a><br /><span style="font-family:arial;"> ou através do seguinte endereço:</span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;"> Edifício Espanha, Rua Soeiro Pereira Gomes, lote 1, 8º F, 1600-196 Lisboa</span><span style="font-family:arial;"></span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03515312546652168657noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3637090899990191050.post-46333721356642385842009-05-05T14:28:00.002-07:002009-05-05T14:29:29.287-07:00casemods-que-sao-obras-de-arte<p style="color: rgb(204, 0, 0); font-weight: bold;font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:180%;"><a href="http://www.mundotecno.info/">Mundo Tecno</a></span></p><p><a href="http://mundotecno.blogsome.com/go.php?http://pt.wikipedia.org/wiki/Casemod">Casemod</a> são modificações no gabinete, feito por pessoas que gostam de personalizar seu computador para ficar mais bonito, atraente. Às vezes pode ser feito também em periféricos, como mouse, teclado, monitor… O fato é que alguns exageram na dose, criando verdadeiras obras de arte.</p> <p>O site <a href="http://mundotecno.blogsome.com/go.php?http://www.computer-plus.com/">Computer Plus</a> reuniu 60 modelos bem diferentes, que se destacam dos Casemods que costumamos ver. Vejamos alguns exemplos:<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/20802384@N00/1692343554/"><br /></a></p> <div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://mundotecno.blogsome.com/go.php?http://www.flickr.com/photos/20802384@N00/1692343554/"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2387/1692343554_81a3a6aa6a_m.jpg" /></a><br />Esse realmente é fã do <a href="http://mundotecno.blogsome.com/go.php?http://www.digg.com">Digg</a><br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/20802384@N00/1691491097/"><br /><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2156/1691491097_094250a44d_m.jpg" /></a><br />Cuidado aonde pisa!<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/20802384@N00/1692345596/"><br /><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2411/1692345596_06d0db9e9e_m.jpg" /></a><br />O <a href="http://mundotecno.blogsome.com/go.php?http://www.benderblog.com/">Bender</a> (não o do futurama, o do blog) deve adorar este<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/20802384@N00/1691491691/"><br /><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2048/1691491691_2f2914dd3f_m.jpg" /></a><br />O melhor de todos, na minha opinião<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/20802384@N00/1691492287/"><br /><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2192/1691492287_14870a1597_m.jpg" /></a><br />Que nojeira! </div> <p> Confira todos o modelos no <a href="http://mundotecno.blogsome.com/go.php?http://www.computer-plus.com/computer-mods/top60.html">Computer Plus</a>. É diversão garantida!</p> <p>Gostou do assunto? Alguns links legais:<br /><a href="http://mundotecno.blogsome.com/go.php?http://www.adrenaline.com.br/forum/archive/index.php/t-9569.html">Aprenda a fazer seu casemod</a><br /><a href="http://mundotecno.blogsome.com/go.php?http://gamesbrasil.uol.com.br/forum/archive/index.php/t-26760.html">Tutorial casemod</a><br /><a href="http://mundotecno.blogsome.com/go.php?http://www.casemodbr.com/">Casemod BR</a><br /><a href="http://mundotecno.blogsome.com/go.php?http://www.spon.com.br/">Spon</a> (loja especializada em vender acessórios para casemod)</p>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03515312546652168657noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3637090899990191050.post-58119538324649410692009-05-05T14:28:00.001-07:002009-05-05T14:28:44.234-07:00PC em forma de bola desperta curiosidade na web<img src="http://img.terra.com.br/i/2007/03/10/476326-1252-cp.jpg" alt="Uma das fotos exibidas no site mostra o " pc="" mundo="" /> <div id="legenda">Uma das fotos exibidas no site mostra o "Pc mundo"<br /><br /></div><span id="SearchKey_Text1">Um microcomputador no formato de uma esfera - nome mais chique da conhecida bola - despertou atenção de usuários de listas de discussão na Internet. Seria um lançamento? Onde poderia ser comprado? A equipe da Magnet intensificou buscas por repositórios japoneses e descobriu que a engenhoca, criada pela empresa "Zero Eight O´Nine" (www.0809.jp) era de fato um lançamento em... 2002. <p> <a href="javascript:abre('http://tecnologia.terra.com.br/galerias/0,,OI42255-EI4795,00.html','Galeria42255','660','500','no');" class="textolinkbold">» Mais fotos do "PC bola"</a> <img src="http://img.terra.com.br/i/ico_foto_preto.gif" border="0" /><br /><a href="javascript:abre('http://tecnologia.terra.com.br/galerias/0,,OI16128-EI4795,00.html','Galeria24115','660','500','no');" class="textolinkbold">» Veja casemods inusitados</a> <img src="http://img.terra.com.br/i/ico_foto_preto.gif" border="0" /><br /><a href="javascript:abre('http://tecnologia.terra.com.br/galerias/0,,OI22942-EI4795,00.html','Galeria24115','660','500','no');" class="textolinkbold">» Dez gabinetes modificados</a> <img src="http://img.terra.com.br/i/ico_foto_preto.gif" border="0" /><br /><a href="http://tecnologia.terra.com.br/interna/0,,OI932377-EI4801,00.html" class="textolinkbold">» PCs imitam Doom III e moto</a> </p><p>O processo de fabricação da esfera era artesanal e os consumidores poderiam optar por diferentes cores e padrões: desde um "discreto" verde-limão até uma reprodução do mapa-múndi. Havia também uma opção de revestimento em alumínio. </p><p>O fabricante oferecia quatro opções diferentes de configuração de hardware. As placas-mãe eram as VIA EPIA Mini ITX, de baixo consumo de energia e com dimensões reduzidas, o que facilitou a fabricação do curioso computador. Os processadores também eram fabricados pela VIA Technologies com clocks de 800, 933 e 1.000 MHz, com barramento de placa de vídeo AGP e opções de micros com CD-ROM ou até gravadores de DVD. </p><p>Os micros da Zero Eight O´Nine podem ser considerados os precursores dos casemods - a arte de personalizar as máquinas. No Brasil existe um site especializado no assunto (http://www.casemodbr.com/) e até profissionais que trabalham exclusivamente na customização de gabinetes, os "casemodders". </p></span> <div class="credito"><p>Magnet</p><p><a href="http://www.terra.com.br/" target="_top"><img src="http://img.terra.com.br/imgn/logo_terra.gif" alt="Terra" border="0" /></a></p></div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03515312546652168657noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3637090899990191050.post-40407982287404927782009-04-21T02:07:00.001-07:002009-04-21T02:07:22.713-07:00<h2 class="det_title"><a linkindex="1" href="http://www.akihabaranews.com/en/"><img src="http://www.akihabaranews.com/en/img/logo_akihabara_news.gif" alt="Akihabara News" style="margin-top: 3px;" align="left" border="0" height="72" width="330" /></a>Goth is Back, Goth is Good, Goth is the Way! Mouse, Mousepad and Goth Keyboard.</h2> <div style="float: right; margin-bottom: 10px; display: none;" id="rank"> <span class="gry1b">Rate this News:</span> <img id="pig_1" name="pig_1" src="http://www.akihabaranews.com/en/img/pig.png" alt="Bad" title="Bad" style="cursor: pointer;" onmouseover="changeImage(1, 1)" onmouseout="changeImage(1, 0)" onclick="postRating(1)" align="texttop" height="15" width="20" /><img id="pig_2" name="pig_2" src="http://www.akihabaranews.com/en/img/pig.png" alt="Poor" title="Poor" style="cursor: pointer;" onmouseover="changeImage(2, 1)" onmouseout="changeImage(2, 0)" onclick="postRating(2)" align="texttop" height="15" width="20" /><img id="pig_3" name="pig_3" src="http://www.akihabaranews.com/en/img/pig.png" alt="Average" title="Average" style="cursor: pointer;" onmouseover="changeImage(3, 1)" onmouseout="changeImage(3, 0)" onclick="postRating(3)" align="texttop" height="15" width="20" /><img id="pig_4" name="pig_4" src="http://www.akihabaranews.com/en/img/pig.png" alt="Good" title="Good" style="cursor: pointer;" onmouseover="changeImage(4, 1)" onmouseout="changeImage(4, 0)" onclick="postRating(4)" align="texttop" height="15" width="20" /><img id="pig_5" name="pig_5" src="http://www.akihabaranews.com/en/img/pig.png" alt="Excellent" title="Excellent" style="cursor: pointer;" onmouseover="changeImage(5, 1)" onmouseout="changeImage(5, 0)" onclick="postRating(5)" align="texttop" height="15" width="20" /> </div> <div class="blk2 justified_txt">Not long ago we talked about a Goth like set of skull speakers and a Gothish PC Web-camera. This morning Evergreen came back to us with a rather strange combo consisting of a mouse, mousepad and Goth keyboard.<br /><br />I'm personally not too crazy about this stuff, but I am sure someone, somewhere, would be interested in this combo.<br /><br /><center><img src="http://media.akihabaranews.com/15413/Evergreen_1.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></center></div> <p class="blk2b">Related Links:<br /><a linkindex="24" href="http://www.everg.co.jp/" class="lngrn" target="_blank">Evergreen</a><br /></p> <div style="margin: 5px; float: left; width: 84px;"><a linkindex="25" href="http://www.akihabaranews.com/en/news_gallery.php?id=15413&img_name=Evergreen_001.jpg"><img src="http://media.akihabaranews.com/15413/thumb_Evergreen_001.jpg" class="imgbdr" alt="News" height="84" width="84" /></a></div> <div style="margin: 5px; float: left; width: 84px;"><a linkindex="26" href="http://www.akihabaranews.com/en/news_gallery.php?id=15413&img_name=Evergreen_002.jpg"><img src="http://media.akihabaranews.com/15413/thumb_Evergreen_002.jpg" class="imgbdr" alt="News" height="84" width="84" /></a></div> <div style="margin: 5px; float: left; width: 84px;"><a linkindex="27" href="http://www.akihabaranews.com/en/news_gallery.php?id=15413&img_name=Evergreen_003.jpg"><img src="http://media.akihabaranews.com/15413/thumb_Evergreen_003.jpg" class="imgbdr" alt="News" height="84" width="84" /></a></div> <div style="margin: 5px; float: left; width: 84px;"><a linkindex="28" href="http://www.akihabaranews.com/en/news_gallery.php?id=15413&img_name=Evergreen_004.jpg"><img src="http://media.akihabaranews.com/15413/thumb_Evergreen_004.jpg" class="imgbdr" alt="News" height="84" width="84" /></a></div> <div style="margin: 5px; float: left; width: 84px;"><a linkindex="29" href="http://www.akihabaranews.com/en/news_gallery.php?id=15413&img_name=Evergreen_005.jpg"><img src="http://media.akihabaranews.com/15413/thumb_Evergreen_005.jpg" class="imgbdr" alt="News" height="84" width="84" /></a></div> <div style="margin: 5px; float: left; width: 84px;"><a linkindex="30" href="http://www.akihabaranews.com/en/news_gallery.php?id=15413&img_name=Evergreen_006.jpg"><img src="http://media.akihabaranews.com/15413/thumb_Evergreen_006.jpg" class="imgbdr" alt="News" height="84" width="84" /></a></div> <div style="margin: 5px; float: left; width: 84px;"><a linkindex="31" href="http://www.akihabaranews.com/en/news_gallery.php?id=15413&img_name=Evergreen_007.jpg"><img src="http://media.akihabaranews.com/15413/thumb_Evergreen_007.jpg" class="imgbdr" alt="News" height="84" width="84" /></a></div> <div style="margin: 5px; float: left; width: 84px;"><a linkindex="32" href="http://www.akihabaranews.com/en/news_gallery.php?id=15413&img_name=Evergreen_008.jpg"><img src="http://media.akihabaranews.com/15413/thumb_Evergreen_008.jpg" class="imgbdr" alt="News" height="84" width="84" /></a></div> <a linkindex="33" href="http://akihabaranews.smugmug.com/" target="_blank"><br /></a>prof. Máriohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13538472024237273816noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3637090899990191050.post-77871309819571136622009-04-19T16:39:00.000-07:002009-04-19T16:42:30.301-07:00Making a glowpad<div style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" class="smallfont"><span style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(102, 0, 0);font-size:180%;" ><span style="font-family: verdana;"> </span><strong style="font-family: verdana;">.</strong><a style="font-family: verdana;" href="http://www.bit-tech.net/">bit-tech.net</a></span><strong><br /><br />.. or, how I learned to stop worrying and love the router</strong> </div> <hr style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153); background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); font-family: arial;" size="1"> <!-- / icon and title --> <!-- message --> <div style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" id="post_message_294910"> After finishing off my case mod (see sig), I found that stopping my modder's reflex is a little harder than I expected it would be. Long story short, I figured I'd use some of the leftover parts from my case, to make one of those fancy glowing mousepads.<br /><br />Now, you've all seen them, and mine's nothing different or special. Nonetheless, I feel I should contribute to the Mod Guides section with a pictorial guide.<br /><br />First of all, it's important to know that I'll be using the router heavily throughout this project. Most people would suggest a dremel or jigsaw for doing this sortof thing, but if you have a router, now's a great time to use it. Using tools like the router and tablesaw can bring a much higher level of accuracy to the project, and make you feel better about your work.<br /><br />Anyways, start by cutting out a plywood mockup of the mousepad, whatever dimensions you like (I used 8.5*10", since it's about the biggest that could fit on my desk. I'd suggest one a little higher)<br /><img src="http://hmack.fateback.com/pad_01.txt" alt="" class="tcattdimgresizer" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" border="0" /><br />Aim for a high level of precision, because the outcome of the pad depends on it<br />---<br />Next, cut out (using any tool) an oversized piece of plexi (the thicker the better)<br /><br /><img style="width: 404px; height: 303px;" src="http://hmack.fateback.com/pad_02.txt" alt="" class="tcattdimgresizer" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" border="0" /><br />---<br />Using countersinking wood screws, attach the plywood mockup to a workbench or another, bigger piece of plywood. Then, drill two holes and fit yet another two countersinking wood screws through them, and screw the plexi to the plywood mockup. Clamps would be inconvenient at this point, because it's easiest to do the cutout all at once, and the clamps wouldn't allow that (they'd block the router, and have to be periodically moved)<br /><br /><img style="width: 398px; height: 298px;" src="http://hmack.fateback.com/pad_04.txt" alt="" class="tcattdimgresizer" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" border="0" /><br />---<br />As you can see, we'll be using a standard router, with a 1/2 trim bit. The roller bearing keeps the movement of the blade exactly aligned with the plywood mockup. This allows us to create a perfect duplicate. Another advantage is that the router will usually leave you with a very nice looking edge, requiring little to no finish work<br /><img src="http://hmack.fateback.com/pad_03.txt" alt="" class="tcattdimgresizer" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" border="0" /><br />---<br />Begin cutting, making sure to follow along the path the board makes, and maintain a reletivly fast feed rate. Going too slow causes melting, because the blade isn't so much cutting the material, but rather chipping away at it.<br /><img style="width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://hmack.fateback.com/pad_05.txt" alt="" class="tcattdimgresizer" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" border="0" /><br />---<br />Even thougn the cut is complete, we're going to leave the plexi attached to the guide just a little longer. It makes it easier to do finish sanding.<br />Now, most people would be happy with a sanding block and a lot of time. Not me, however. Today we'll be using a belt sander to finish up the edges and make them all pretty.<br /><img style="width: 402px; height: 301px;" src="http://hmack.fateback.com/pad_06.txt" alt="" class="tcattdimgresizer" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" border="0" /><br />Simply follow along the wooden guide with the belt sander turned sideways. The wood should stop you from removing more plexi than necessary.<br /><img style="width: 403px; height: 302px;" src="http://hmack.fateback.com/pad_07.txt" alt="" class="tcattdimgresizer" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" border="0" /><br /><br />Since the belt sander's paper may be fairly coarse, follow up with 600 and then 1000 grit wetordry sandpaper. It takes a while, but you get the edges to an almost see-thru level<br />---<br /><br />Time for the LEDs. I'll be using 5 superbright reds that I got from an LED cluster at Wal-Mart. You could use blue or whatever if you so desire.<br />First of all, find an un-used wall-wart and figure out the voltage it puts out. Then use Bit-Tech's own LED calculator to figure out the required resistor<br /><a linkindex="33" href="http://www.bit-tech.net/article/68/" target="_blank">http://www.bit-tech.net/article/68/</a><br /><img style="width: 404px; height: 303px;" src="http://hmack.fateback.com/pad_08.txt" alt="" class="tcattdimgresizer" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" border="0" /><br /><img style="width: 408px; height: 306px;" src="http://hmack.fateback.com/pad_09.txt" alt="" class="tcattdimgresizer" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" border="0" /><br /><img src="http://hmack.fateback.com/pad_10.txt" alt="" class="tcattdimgresizer" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" border="0" /><br />---<br />The plexi I used wasn't too thick (only 3mm) it was necessary to trim down the LEDs. You could do it the safe and patient way and use a file or sheet of sandpaper, but I won't cover that. Instead, I'll show you the magic of the bench grinder. It managed to take the LEDs down to size in a few seconds<br /><img style="width: 402px; height: 301px;" src="http://hmack.fateback.com/pad_11.txt" alt="" class="tcattdimgresizer" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" border="0" /><br />---<br />Next up, we need to make grooves or channels for the wiring to fit through. Once again, we'll turn to our friend, the router for it's assistance. You can't really tell in the picture, but I carefully set the depth of cut so it's about 2mm deep. That way, I can safely cut a 2mm groove in the plexi, and use the other 1mm for support.<br /><img style="width: 402px; height: 301px;" src="http://hmack.fateback.com/pad_11.txt" alt="" class="tcattdimgresizer" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" border="0" /><br />At this point I should mention that to mount the LEDs, I drilled 3/8" holes. Honest to goodness holes. Don't worry, they can't even be detected once the surface goes on.<br /><img src="http://hmack.fateback.com/pad_12.txt" alt="" class="tcattdimgresizer" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" border="0" /><br /><br />---<br />A film can is used to house the switchs and wiring. This holds many advantages, such as preventing electric shocks, and preventing 'fallapart'<br /><img src="http://hmack.fateback.com/pad_14.txt" alt="" class="tcattdimgresizer" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" border="0" /><br /><img src="http://hmack.fateback.com/pad_15.txt" alt="" class="tcattdimgresizer" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" border="0" /><br />---<br />Finally, the mouse tracking surface was from an old school book. I can't really describe the material or give it a name. It was hard, yet bendy. It is also quite low in the friction department, and it lets my mouse glide around freely. It also tracks very well in the optical department. I cut it out so that it was 1cm inset on every edge, and attached it with double sided carpet tape.<br />---<br />Finally, the result:<br /><br /><img src="http://hmack.fateback.com/pad_16.txt" alt="" class="tcattdimgresizer" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" border="0" /><br />Light on ^^<br /><img src="http://hmack.fateback.com/pad_17.txt" alt="" class="tcattdimgresizer" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" border="0" /><br />Light off ^^<br /><br />Hope this was semi-easy to follow and gave an even clearer understanding and insight into the process of making a mouse pad </div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03515312546652168657noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3637090899990191050.post-24575743996312359282009-04-19T15:41:00.000-07:002009-04-19T15:48:14.249-07:00HDD Activity Meter<span style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);font-size:100%;" ><a href="http://www.bit-tech.net/">bit-tech.net</a></span><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 102);font-size:100%;" ><br /><br /><b>Author:</b> Dave Williams<br /><b>Published:</b> 23rd June 2002<br /><br /><b>A Knight in Shining LEDs</b><br />Okay, this circuit is really part of the <a linkindex="19" href="http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/2002/06/22/knight_rider/1.html">"Knight Rider"</a> project. I have separated it purely for the benefit of web search engines looking for a "Hard Drive Activity Meter". It uses the same basic circuit, circuit board designs and construction as before, and therefore I am not going to repeat all that detail. I strongly suggest you refer to the <a linkindex="20" href="http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/2002/06/22/knight_rider/1.html">"Knight Rider"</a> project for construction details.<br /><br />This circuit is designed as a replacement for the standard HDD activity LED and offers an indication of the amount of activity by lighting a row of LEDs. The higher the HDD activity, the more LEDs light. It does not give a reading of actual Mb/s, just how hard the drive is working.<br /><br />The circuit is based around the "Classic" Knight Rider design and differs only with R3 being fitted in it's alternate position, the addition of IC4 and R6, and VR1 is replaced with a wire link.<br /><br />The opto-isolator, IC4, connects to the HDD LED header on the motherboard and serves to isolate the circuit from the rest of the system whilst ensuring compatibility with just about every motherboard that has a HDD LED. As the HDD reads and writes it produces a stream of pulses which are fed to the circuit via the opto-isolator. These pulses are fed into IC1b, which buffers and shapes these pulses before feeding them into IC1a. IC1a is an integrator whose job it is to "smooth" these pulses into a voltage level. This voltage is reasonably proportional to the frequency and duration of the pulses generated by the HDDs activity. Hence, the busier the drive, the higher the voltage. This voltage is fed from the output of IC1a into IC2 which is an LED bargraph voltmeter. So in a nutshell, the busier the drive, the more LEDs light up. Similar to the previous circuits, the display can be operated in either DOT or BAR mode and has 10 and 20 LED variations.<br /><br />VR3 sets the "zero" and is adjusted so that all the LEDs are just extinguished with no HDD activity. VR2 is the "span" and is adjusted so that all the LEDs are lit during heavy or constant drive activity. This span adjustment is somewhat subjective and is found by trial and error during HDD activity.<br /><br /><br /><a linkindex="21" href="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/hdd_activity_meter/hdd_meter.png" target="_blank"><img src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/hdd_activity_meter/small_hdd_meter.gif" alt="HDD Activity Meter The Circuit" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><b>Parts List</b> with order codes for UK and US suppliers<br /><img style="width: 402px; height: 420px;" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/hdd_activity_meter/table1.gif" alt="HDD Activity Meter The Circuit" border="0" /><br /><br /><br /></span> <h2 style="color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"><span style="font-size:100%;">10 individual LED version</span></h2><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 102);font-size:100%;" >This board design like the others following, uses R3 in it's alternate position and has additional components IC4 and R6. VR1 is also replaced with a wire link. These changes to the layout are denoted in red. This board has two links, one of which replaces VR1.<br /><br /><br /><img src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/hdd_activity_meter/hdd_meter_single_leds.gif" alt="HDD Activity Meter The Circuit" border="0" /><a linkindex="22" href="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/hdd_activity_meter/single_leds_x4.gif" target="_blank"><img src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/hdd_activity_meter/small_single_leds_x4.gif" alt="HDD Activity Meter The Circuit" border="0" /></a><br />Component layout - top view (left) and Track layout - Viewed from above (right)<br /><br /><br /><img src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/hdd_activity_meter/22.jpg" alt="HDD Activity Meter The Circuit" border="0" /><br />The finished board.<br /><br /><br /></span> <h2 style="color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"><span style="font-size:100%;">Single LED array version</span></h2><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 102);font-size:100%;" >Note the two links on the circuit board and that R3 is fitted in it's "alternate" position.<br /><br /><img src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/hdd_activity_meter/hdd_meter_single_bargraph.gif" alt="HDD Activity Meter The Circuit" border="0" /><a linkindex="23" href="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/hdd_activity_meter/single_bargraph_x4.gif" target="_blank"><img src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/hdd_activity_meter/small_single_bargraph_x4.gif" alt="HDD Activity Meter The Circuit" border="0" /></a><br />Component layout - top view (left) and Track layout - Viewed from above (right)<br /><br /><br /><img src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/hdd_activity_meter/23.jpg" alt="HDD Activity Meter The Circuit" border="0" /><img src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/hdd_activity_meter/single_array.gif" alt="HDD Activity Meter The Circuit" border="0" /><br /><br />The finished board and the detail of how the anodes are linked together and connected to the board using pad13, indicated by the red<br /><br /><b>20 LED versions</b><br /><br />In this design the effect is of a pair of LEDs moving away from each other, (DOT mode), or, if using BAR mode, a row of LEDs expanding outwards away from each other.<br /><br /><a linkindex="21" href="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/hdd_activity_meter/hdd_meter_double_leds_circuit.png" target="_blank"><img src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/hdd_activity_meter/small_hdd_meter_double_leds_circuit.gif" alt="HDD Activity Meter 20 LED Versions" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><b>Parts List</b> with order codes for UK and US suppliers<br /><img style="width: 402px; height: 414px;" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/hdd_activity_meter/table2.gif" alt="HDD Activity Meter 20 LED Versions" border="0" /><br /><br /><br /></span> <h2 style="color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"><span style="font-size:100%;">20 individual LED version</span></h2><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 102);font-size:100%;" >As in all the board designs for the HDD meter, R3 is fitted in its alternate position and VR1 is replaced with a wire link. There is a total of three links on this board.<br /><br /><br /><img style="width: 411px; height: 187px;" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/hdd_activity_meter/hdd_meter_double_leds.gif" alt="HDD Activity Meter 20 LED Versions" border="0" /><br />Component layout - top view.<br /><br /><br /><br /><a linkindex="22" href="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/hdd_activity_meter/double_leds_x4.gif" target="_blank"><img style="width: 404px; height: 184px;" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/hdd_activity_meter/small_double_leds_x4.gif" alt="HDD Activity Meter 20 LED Versions" border="0" /></a><br />Track layout - Viewed from above.<br /><br /><br /><img src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/hdd_activity_meter/24.jpg" alt="HDD Activity Meter 20 LED Versions" border="0" /><br />The finished board.<br /><br /><br /></span> <h2 style="color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"><span style="font-size:100%;">The PCB layout if using two 10 LED arrays</span></h2><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 102);font-size:100%;" >Again three links are used here.<br /><br /><br /><img src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/hdd_activity_meter/hdd_meter_double_bargraph.gif" alt="HDD Activity Meter 20 LED Versions" border="0" /><a linkindex="23" href="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/hdd_activity_meter/double_bargraph_x4.gif" target="_blank"><img src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/hdd_activity_meter/small_double_bargraph_x4.gif" alt="HDD Activity Meter 20 LED Versions" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Component layout - top view (left) and Track layout - Viewed from above (right)<br /><br /><br /><img src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/hdd_activity_meter/21.jpg" alt="HDD Activity Meter 20 LED Versions" border="0" /><br />The finished board.<br /><br /><br /><img style="width: 402px; height: 179px;" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/hdd_activity_meter/double_array2.gif" alt="HDD Activity Meter 20 LED Versions" border="0" /><br />Wiring detail between the LED arrays viewed from above. <br /><br /><b>Setting up</b><br /><br /><img src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/hdd_activity_meter/33.jpg" alt="HDD Activity Meter Setting Up" border="0" /><br /><br />Setting up is simple but does involve a degree of trial and error. As before, I have included some resistance settings for VR2 and VR3 to give a reasonable starting point. Remember to set these measurements with the power disconnected from the circuit.<br /><br />It helps to have the meter in BAR mode when setting up. With power connected and the HDD LED connection from the motherboard plugged in to the meter board, adjust VR3 so all the meter LEDs are <i>just </i>off. Then give the HDD something to do, I copied the pak0.pk3 file from the Quake 3 CD to my HDD. This file is 468MB and is big enough to allow sufficient time and constant HDD activity to set VR2. You can use any large file so long as it takes enough time to allow the setting of VR2. Whilst the file is copying adjust VR2 so all the LEDs are just fully lit.<br /><br />Go back and check the VR3 setting and if needed readjust. If VR3 is readjusted then VR2 will also require tweaking. Keep repeating this fine tuning of the controls until no more adjustment is needed. The idea is to have no LEDs lit with no HDD activity and all LEDs lit, or the top LED in the case of using DOT mode, with constant drive activity. The in-between bits will look after themselves!<br /><br /><br /><img src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/hdd_activity_meter/27.jpg" alt="HDD Activity Meter Setting Up" border="0" /><img src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/hdd_activity_meter/31.jpg" alt="HDD Activity Meter Setting Up" border="0" /><br />Adjust VR3 so all the LEDs are <i>just</i> extinguished.<br /><br /><br /><img src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/hdd_activity_meter/29.jpg" alt="HDD Activity Meter Setting Up" border="0" /><img src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/hdd_activity_meter/32.jpg" alt="HDD Activity Meter Setting Up" border="0" /><br />VR2 is adjusted so that all LEDs are lit during constant drive activity.<br /><br /><br />The meter is an indication of the level of HDD activity, which can be influenced by operating system file caching, and as such, is somewhat subjective in how the display is interpreted. The component values used in the circuit produce excellent results with the motherboard/hard drive combinations tested but due to design variations between motherboards from different manufacturers, experimenting with the value of C2 may produce better/worse results. Values between 10uF - 100uF should be suitable.<br /><br />The same comments about experimenting with the circuit made <a linkindex="26" href="http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/2002/06/22/knight_rider/6.html">in the sister article here</a> also apply to this design.</span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03515312546652168657noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3637090899990191050.post-58543500747475384322009-04-19T15:29:00.000-07:002009-04-19T15:40:00.875-07:00Knight Rider LED mod<span style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-size:180%;" ><a style="font-family: verdana;" href="http://www.bit-tech.net/">bit-tech.net</a></span><br /><br /><div style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" id="page-head"> <b>Author:</b> Dave Williams<br /> <b>Published:</b> 22nd June 2002</div><!-- /article navigation --> <!-- article body --> <div style="margin: 0pt 0pt 1em 1em; float: right; display: inline; font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"> </div> <!-- Article Start --> <b style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"><br />"A shadowy flight into the dangerous world of a man who does not exist..."</b><br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > Knight Rider, a cult TV series from the 80's, starred a gallant crime fighting hero who didn't exist, (!), and a talking car with a mind of it's own called KITT. The car, a black Trans Am, had one cool visual feature, it's front sensor, a red scanning light panning back and forth. This effect has proven so popular, it appears in various guises in numerous TV shows and films. Of course, if it looks cool then it doesn't take long before the PC modding community starts to add it to their repertoire of eye candy. So without more ado let's move on to my version of the "Knight Rider" effect.</span><br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > This circuit has proven to be so versatile that I decided to make several variations of it and hopefully you should find one that takes your fancy. Due to the numerous permutations of the circuit, I have stuck to building it on a PCB. Of course you can build it on stripboard if you prefer but I will leave the design of that layout up to you. If you have never made a PCB before or find the prospect too daunting, I will be producing a beginners guide to making PCBs soon. It is really easy and generally quicker than using stripboard. It took me less than 1 hour to produce all the PCBs in this article. Read on...</span><br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > The different versions are:</span><br /><ol><li><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" ><span style="font-weight: bold;">The basic or classic effect. </span>This uses 10 LEDs for the display.</span></li><li><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" ><span style="font-weight: bold;">The "gated" version.</span> This is the the same thing but the LEDs only light when there is a control input. Intended for use with the motherboards HDD LED. The idea being that the display only operates during HDD activity. This uses the 10 LED display.</span></li><li><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" ><span style="font-weight: bold;">The basic circuit using 20 LEDs.</span> This produces a dramatic visual variation by having the LEDs scanning in opposite directions simultaneously.</span></li><li><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" >The "gated" version with 20 LEDs producing the same effect as number 3.</span></li><li><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" ><span style="font-weight: bold;">HDD activity meter. </span>This produces an indication of the actual amount of HDD activity. I have produced this as a separate article to make it easier for web crawlers to find. This circuit also comes in four variations.</span></li></ol> <br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > Reading through the article you will notice there are several circuit board designs. The reason being, I decided to use ready made LED arrays as well as individual LEDs, plus there are 10 and 20 LED versions of each. The ready made LED arrays allow for a more compact display and produce a slightly different visual effect. Using individual LEDs allows total freedom for choice of colour whereas the arrays are only available in red, green or yellow. (At the moment).</span><br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > Each of the circuit boards have been designed to accommodate all of the circuit variations, classic, gated or HDD meter, the only differences between them being to accommodate which LED display and number of LEDs you choose to use. Don't be alarmed by the number of circuit designs and boards. You only have to make three easy choices to know which one to use. Firstly, decide if you want to use individual LEDs or the bargraph arrays, then choose either the 10 LED version or the 20 LED version. This will determine which of the four possible board designs to use. Once the choice of display is decided, then pick which circuit to use, the standard or the gated version. This will tell you which component layout to use. It may sound complicated, it's not. You will see how easy it is as you read the article.</span><br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > One final note before I move on to the construction, I have repeated the circuit layouts on each page. I felt it was less confusing to see the board designs whilst reading the construction notes. To keep the tedium to a minimum I have not repeated construction notes throughout the article. Most of the detail is at the beginning, thinning out as the article progresses. Only comments relevant to each version will be made, so read the entire article carefully before starting any work. Components which are unique to each variation are shown in red on each layout diagram. At the end of the article is the setting up procedure and comments about some of the components used.</span><br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > I intend to add real videos of each version when I can, but until then here are some digi-cam movies to keep you going...</span><br /><br /><a style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" linkindex="19" href="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/vid1a.avi" target="_blank"><img src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/vid1.jpg" alt="Knight Rider LED mod Introduction" border="0" /></a><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > </span><a style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" linkindex="20" href="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/vid2a.avi" target="_blank"><img src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/vid2.jpg" alt="Knight Rider LED mod Introduction" border="0" /></a><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > </span><a style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" linkindex="21" href="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/vid3a.avi" target="_blank"><img src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/vid3.jpg" alt="Knight Rider LED mod Introduction" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > Bargraph - DOT mode / Bargraph - BAR mode / Classic Knight Rider </span><br /><br /><b style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">The Classic Knight Rider</b><br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > This circuit uses 10 LEDs to produce the effect of a single LED continuously moving back and forth in a line. The circuit comprises of two main parts, a triangle wave oscillator and an LED bargraph. Looking at the circuit below, IC1 is a dual op-amp configured as an oscillator, the output of which is a triangle wave. The oscillators frequency can be varied by adjusting VR3. The triangle output is fed into IC2, an LM3914 10 segment LED bargraph. This chip is basically a voltmeter which lights a series of LEDs, the number of LEDs lit is proportional the the voltage fed into the chip. Since the input to the chip is a triangle, (continuously rising and falling voltage), the LEDs light sequentially giving rise to the "scanning" effect. The chip can operate in either of two modes, "DOT" or "BAR". In DOT mode only one LED is lit at a time. This produces the classic Knight rider effect. By linking points "A" and "B" on the circuit "BAR" mode is selected. In this mode the LEDs progressively light until all the LEDs are lit producing a "bar" of light.</span><br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > The circuit is designed to operate from the PC's +12V supply. VR1 adjusts the zero or start point of the meter. VR2 adjusts the meters span or end point and VR3 sets the oscillator frequency and hence the speed of the effect. Basically VR1 and VR2 determine how the effect looks. I will cover the setting up procedure in more detail later.</span><br /><br /><br /><br /><a style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" linkindex="20" href="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/normal.gif" target="_blank"><img src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/small_normal.gif" alt="Knight Rider LED mod Classic" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > Linking points "A" and "B" switches the display into "BAR" mode which changes the effect into a continuously "growing and shrinking" line of LEDs.</span><br /><br /><b style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">Parts List</b><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > with order codes for UK and US suppliers</span><br /><br /><br /><img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153); width: 438px; height: 527px;" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/table1.gif" alt="Knight Rider LED mod Classic" border="0" /><br /><br /><br /><b style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">The PCB layout if using individual LEDs.</b><br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > NOTE: The PCB foil pattern shown, (and for all board versions), is not to scale. Clicking on the picture will open a 4x sized version which should be printed out at 25% of original size. This ensures an accurate and sharp print out for PCB exposure. Paint programs such as Paint Shop Pro allow for such reductions when printing. </span><i style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">Do not</i><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > rescale the picture and then print it, have the printer do it during printing. Don't forget to fit the small link shown in red on the layout. Also note the position of R3 which has two possible positions. You can see the two </span><i style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">unused</i><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > holes between R3 and R4 on the layout.</span><br /><br /><br /><img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/normal_single_leds.gif" alt="Knight Rider LED mod Classic" border="0" /> <a style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" linkindex="21" href="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/single_leds_x4.gif" target="_blank"><img src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/small_single_leds_x4.gif" alt="Knight Rider LED mod Classic" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > Component layout - top view (left) and Track layout - Viewed from above (right)</span><br /><br /><br /><img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/1.jpg" alt="Knight Rider LED mod Classic" border="0" /> <img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/2.jpg" alt="Knight Rider LED mod Classic" border="0" /><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > When assembling the components on the circuit board it is usually a good idea to fit the components with the least height first, working your way up to the tallest. It makes the board wobble less when trying to solder! For this project I recommend fitting the LEDs first as this will make aligning them accurately easier and will produce a nice even line of light. If your board has a decently flat edge then butting the LED base up to it will make it much easier to get all the LEDs in a straight line. The procedure to bend the LED legs to fit the board perfectly is discussed later under the 20 LED version.</span><br /><br /><br /> <img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/13.jpg" alt="Knight Rider LED mod Classic" border="0" /><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > The finished board. The unused holes are to accommodate components used in the alternate versions yet to be described.</span><br /><br /><br /><b style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">The PCB layout if using a single LED array.</b><br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > When building this version I suggest fitting the LED bargraph last to make the board assembly easier. This board has one small link marked in red. Again note the position of R3.</span><br /><br /><br /><img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/normal_single_bargraph.gif" alt="Knight Rider LED mod Classic" border="0" /> <a style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" linkindex="22" href="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/single_bargraph_x4.gif" target="_blank"><img src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/small_single_bargraph_x4.gif" alt="Knight Rider LED mod Classic" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > Component layout - top view (left) and Track layout - Viewed from above (right)</span><br /><br /><br /><img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/3.jpg" alt="Knight Rider LED mod Classic" border="0" /> <img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/4.jpg" alt="Knight Rider LED mod Classic" border="0" /><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > The bargraph has two rows of connection pins. A row of anodes and a row of cathodes. The bargraph I used had a bevelled corner, indicated by the red arrow below, to denote which row of pins were the anodes. If you use a different LED array check for correct polarity before soldering it to the board! The array is mounted by soldering the cathodes directly to the circuit board, unlike the anodes which are linked together and connected to PAD13 using wire. (See below).</span><br /><br /><br /><img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/14.jpg" alt="Knight Rider LED mod Classic" border="0" /> <img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/single_array.gif" alt="Knight Rider LED mod Classic" border="0" /><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > The finished board and a detail of how the anodes are linked together and connected to the board using pad13, indicated by the red arrow.</span><br /><br /><b style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">20 LED versions</b><br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > This version of the circuit uses 20 LEDs to produce the effect of two LEDs continuously moving towards each other, meeting and then moving away from each other in a line. Linking points "A" and "B" switches the display into "BAR" mode which changes the effect into a continuously"growing and shrinking" line of LEDs. The only difference between this circuit and the previous ones are the number of LEDs used.</span><br /><br /><a style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" linkindex="20" href="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/double_led.gif" target="_blank"><img src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/small_double_led.gif" alt="Knight Rider LED mod Knight Rider" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><b style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">Parts List</b><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > with order codes for UK and US suppliers</span><br /><br /><img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153); width: 432px; height: 521px;" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/table2.gif" alt="Knight Rider LED mod Knight Rider" border="0" /><br /><br /><br /><b style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">The PCB layout if using individual LEDs.</b><br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > NOTE: there are two links on this board layout. R3 has two possible positions, use the lower position as shown.</span><br /><br /><br /><img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153); width: 436px; height: 199px;" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/normal_double_leds.gif" alt="Knight Rider LED mod Knight Rider" border="0" /><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > Component layout - top view.</span><br /><br /><a style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" linkindex="21" href="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/double_leds_x4.gif" target="_blank"><img style="width: 406px; height: 185px;" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/small_double_leds_x4.gif" alt="Knight Rider LED mod Knight Rider" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > Track layout - Viewed from above.</span><br /><br /><br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > The easiest way to bend the LED legs to fit the circuit board is to first butt the base of the LED up to the edge of the PCB, note which way the LED is with the cathode towards the top of the picture. It is vitally important to have the LED this way round. Get it wrong and the LED will be reverse connected and won't work and you will have to do it again, of course you won't know that until you complete the board and come to test it!!!! So make doubly sure to get it right first time.</span><br /><br /><br /><img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/5.jpg" alt="Knight Rider LED mod Knight Rider" border="0" /><img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/6.jpg" alt="Knight Rider LED mod Knight Rider" border="0" /><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > With the LED aligned, clamp it in place using a straight edge along the line of holes as shown, and bend the LED upwards. I used a bit of off cut circuit board as the straight edge.</span><br /><br /><br /><img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/7.jpg" alt="Knight Rider LED mod Knight Rider" border="0" /> <img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/8.jpg" alt="Knight Rider LED mod Knight Rider" border="0" /><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > This picture should explain it all. Prepare all 20 LEDs before assembling the circuit board.</span><br /><br /><br /><img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/9.jpg" alt="Knight Rider LED mod Knight Rider" border="0" /><img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/10.jpg" alt="Knight Rider LED mod Knight Rider" border="0" /><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > A couple of pictures showing the LEDs being fitted. A bit of care will produce a professional looking display.</span><br /><br /><br /> <img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/15.jpg" alt="Knight Rider LED mod Knight Rider" border="0" /><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > The finished board.</span><br /><br /><b style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">The PCB layout if using two 10 LED arrays</b><br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > This board uses two 10 LED bargraphs to make up the display. 20 LED arrays are available but are not suitable for this design. This board layout has two links. Again R3 is fitted in the lower of it's two possible positions.</span><br /><br /><br /><img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/normal_double_bargraph.gif" alt="Knight Rider LED mod Knight Rider" border="0" /><a style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" linkindex="22" href="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/double_bargraph_x4.gif" target="_blank"><img src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/small_double_bargraph_x4.gif" alt="Knight Rider LED mod Knight Rider" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > Component layout - top view (left) and Track layout - Viewed from above (right)</span><br /><br /><br /><img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/11.jpg" alt="Knight Rider LED mod Knight Rider" border="0" /> <img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/12.jpg" alt="Knight Rider LED mod Knight Rider" border="0" /><br /><b style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">IMPORTANT</b><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > - Notice that the left hand array, (as you look at the picture), is mounted as before in the single unit version by soldering the cathodes to the circuit board, </span><i style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">BUT</i><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > the right hand display is upside down and has it's </span><i style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">anodes</i><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > soldered to the board. The red and blue arrows indicate the bevelled edges denoting which row of pins are the anodes. Also take care to align the arrays accurately when soldering, this gives the finished display a "professional" look. </span><br /><br /><br /><img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/16.jpg" alt="Knight Rider LED mod Knight Rider" border="0" /><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > Each array LED is wired in series with it's opposite number in the other array. The picture above shows how the arrays are connected to each other.</span><br /><br /><img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153); width: 426px; height: 190px;" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/double_array2.gif" alt="Knight Rider LED mod Knight Rider" border="0" /><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > Wiring detail between the LED arrays viewed from above. </span><br /><br /><b style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">HDD Gated Display</b><br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > This is identical to the "Classic" version above except the LEDs only light during hard disk activity. Essentially it is an elaborate replacement for the standard HDD LED. Again, there are four variations similar to the "classic" previously shown. The circuit uses an opto-isolator to block or "gate" the current to the LEDs, preventing them from lighting. The input to the opto-isolator is connected to the motherboards HDD LED header. During HDD activity the opto-isolator switches on allowing the LEDs to light. The capacitor C3 helps to "smooth" the effect. You can experiment using different values such as 470uF or 1000uf for a subtle change in effect.</span><br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > Construction wise, these circuit boards are identical to the standard "classic" versions with just the addition of IC3,C3 and HDD connection fitted. C3 actually replaces the small link on the classic boards. The differences are shown in red on the layout diagrams.</span><br /><br /><a style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" linkindex="19" href="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/hdd_gate.gif" target="_blank"><img src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/small_hdd_gate.gif" alt="Knight Rider LED mod HDD Gated Display - 10 LED" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><b style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">Parts List</b><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > with order codes for UK and US suppliers</span><br /><br /><img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153); width: 429px; height: 517px;" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/table3.gif" alt="Knight Rider LED mod HDD Gated Display - 10 LED" border="0" /><br /><br /><br /><h2 style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">10 individual LED version</h2><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" >Construction is as before but with no link, (replaced with C3), and the added components IC3,C3 and the connection pins for the HDD. This board has no links. Note the position of R3 which uses the same holes as the classic version previously.</span><br /><br /><br /><img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/gate_single_leds.gif" alt="Knight Rider LED mod HDD Gated Display - 10 LED" border="0" /><a style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" linkindex="20" href="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/single_leds_x4.gif" target="_blank"><img src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/small_single_leds_x4.gif" alt="Knight Rider LED mod HDD Gated Display - 10 LED" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > Component layout - top view (left) and Track layout - Viewed from above (right)</span><br /><br /> <img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/19.jpg" alt="Knight Rider LED mod HDD Gated Display - 10 LED" border="0" /><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > The finished board.</span><br /><br /><h2 style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">Single LED array version</h2><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" >This board has no links. Note the R3 position.</span><br /><br /><img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/gate_single_bargraph.gif" alt="Knight Rider LED mod HDD Gated Display - 10 LED" border="0" /> <a style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" linkindex="21" href="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/single_bargraph_x4.gif" target="_blank"><img src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/small_single_bargraph_x4.gif" alt="Knight Rider LED mod HDD Gated Display - 10 LED" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > Component layout - top view (left) and Track layout - Viewed from above (right)</span><br /><br /><br /> <img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/17.jpg" alt="Knight Rider LED mod HDD Gated Display - 10 LED" border="0" /> <img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/single_array.gif" alt="Knight Rider LED mod HDD Gated Display - 10 LED" border="0" /><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > The finished board and a detail of how the anodes are linked together and connected to the board using pad13, indicated by the red arrow.</span><br /><br /><b style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">20 LED versions</b><br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > Again, the only difference here is in the number of LEDs used.</span><br /><br /><a style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" linkindex="20" href="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/gate_double_leds_circuit.gif" target="_blank"><img src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/small_gate_double_leds_circuit.gif" alt="Knight Rider LED mod HDD Gated - 20 LED Version" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><b style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">Parts List</b><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > with order codes for UK and US suppliers</span><br /><br /><img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153); width: 432px; height: 535px;" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/table4.gif" alt="Knight Rider LED mod HDD Gated - 20 LED Version" border="0" /><br /><br /><br /><h2 style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">20 individual LED version</h2><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" >There is one link fitted on this board layout. C3 replaces the small link used in the classic version. Again R3 uses the lower position.</span><br /><br /><br /> <img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153); width: 444px; height: 202px;" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/gate_double_leds.gif" alt="Knight Rider LED mod HDD Gated - 20 LED Version" border="0" /><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > Component layout - top view.</span><br /><br /><br /><a style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" linkindex="21" href="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/double_leds_x4.gif" target="_blank"><img style="width: 418px; height: 190px;" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/small_double_leds_x4.gif" alt="Knight Rider LED mod HDD Gated - 20 LED Version" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > Track layout - Viewed from above.</span><br /><br /><br /> <img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/20.jpg" alt="Knight Rider LED mod HDD Gated - 20 LED Version" border="0" /><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > Assembled board. Here I used wires instead of a 2 pin header to connect the supply.</span><br /><br /><br /><h2 style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">The PCB layout if using two 10 LED arrays</h2><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" >This board layout uses one link. R3 is fitted in the lower position. </span><br /><br /> <img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/gate_double_bargraph.gif" alt="Knight Rider LED mod HDD Gated - 20 LED Version" border="0" /><a style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" linkindex="22" href="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/double_bargraph_x4.gif" target="_blank"><img src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/small_double_bargraph_x4.gif" alt="Knight Rider LED mod HDD Gated - 20 LED Version" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > Component layout - top view (lefT) and Track layout - Viewed from above (right)</span><br /><br /><br /> <img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/18.jpg" alt="Knight Rider LED mod HDD Gated - 20 LED Version" border="0" /><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > Finished board.</span><br /><br /><br /> <img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153); width: 435px; height: 194px;" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/double_array2.gif" alt="Knight Rider LED mod HDD Gated - 20 LED Version" border="0" /><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > Wiring detail between the LED arrays viewed from above. </span><br /><br /><b style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">Setting up</b><br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > Before we get to the setting up of the circuit, a few words about some of the components used.</span><br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > You will notice that I have used sockets for the chips. This is purely for my convenience since I often "steal" parts from old projects when developing new ones. You can use sockets if you wish but they are by no means necessary.</span><br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > Correct orientation of the chips is vital. Failure to do so will not only stop the circuits from working but may well result in the chips being destroyed. The first picture below shows how to identify which is pin 1 on the chips. Pin 1 is identified by a round dimple next to it, indicated by the arrows. Note there are sometimes other indentations on the chip, be careful not to get mixed up.</span><br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > The second picture shows the LED array with the bevelled corner indicated by the arrow. This bevel indicates which of the two rows of pins are the anodes. If you use a different array be sure to check which row are the anodes in case it differs. </span><br /><br /><img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/31.jpg" alt="Knight Rider LED mod Setting Up the Circuit" border="0" /> <img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/32.jpg" alt="Knight Rider LED mod Setting Up the Circuit" border="0" /><br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > Moving on to the variable resistors, the PCB layout has been designed to accept either multiturn, (blue in picture), or cheap miniature single turn, (yellow), controls. I recommend using the multiturn type since it makes for </span><i style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">much</i><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > easier setting up of the circuit, especially with regard to fine tuning the display for a really "fluid" movement. The capacitors used are polarised, meaning they need to be connected the correct way round. The shorter of the two legs is the negative.</span><br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > The two pin headers used for connecting to the board come in strips as shown below. Each header pair is snapped off the strip as required. I actually removed these headers from an old ISA modem card. (Check out old sound and VGA cards, recycling rules!). It is not necessary to use the headers, it just make connecting to the board convenient, especially switching between DOT and BAR modes. A switch could be used instead to switch modes if desired.</span><br /><br /><br /><img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/25.jpg" alt="Knight Rider LED mod Setting Up the Circuit" border="0" /> <img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/26.jpg" alt="Knight Rider LED mod Setting Up the Circuit" border="0" /><br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > There are three controls to adjust. Starting with the easiest, VR1. This determines the speed of the animation and is adjusted purely to suit your taste.</span><br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > VR2 sets the span or range of animation. In other words, at what point if and when the last LED lights. VR3 determines the start point or when the first LED lights. It sounds complicated, but all it means is that VR2 and VR3 are adjusted so the the animation moves smoothly between the first to last LEDs. E.G. setting VR2 too low will prevent the last LED(s) from lighting. Setting it too high will cause the last LED to stay lit for too long, making the animation "jerky". VR2 and VR3 interact to some extent, so adjusting one may require a small readjustment to the other.</span><br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > If the "Gated" version is to be used, then replacing C3 with a temporary wire link will make setting up the circuit considerably easier. Once set up, the link is replaced with C3.</span><br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > The following procedure should make it easy and give a good starting point for setting up the circuit, leaving only fine adjustments to be made. These "tweaks" can be made by adjusting VR2/VR3 whilst watching the display for the most pleasing animation. You will need a digital multimeter set to measure resistance. The values given below were arrived at by measuring each of the circuits after they had been fully set up. All of the measurements for all of the boards were within a few 10s of Ohms of each other indicating that this method of setting up would be repeatable.</span><br /><br /><br /><img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/27.jpg" alt="Knight Rider LED mod Setting Up the Circuit" border="0" /> <img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/28.jpg" alt="Knight Rider LED mod Setting Up the Circuit" border="0" /><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > With </span><i style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"><b>NO POWER</b></i><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > connected to the circuit, measure the resistance across pins 2 and 4 of IC2. Adjust VR3 until the reading is about 3KOhms, (3000 Ohms).</span><br /><br /><br /><img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/29.jpg" alt="Knight Rider LED mod Setting Up the Circuit" border="0" /> <img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2002/06/knight_rider/30.jpg" alt="Knight Rider LED mod Setting Up the Circuit" border="0" /><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > Measure the resistance across pins 2 and 5 of IC2. Adjust VR2 until the reading is about 1.275KOhms, (1275 Ohms).</span><br /><br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > The above settings should give a good basis to work from for final tweaking should it be necessary. With the circuit running in DOT mode, set VR1 for a comfortable speed and adjust VR3 and VR2 for smooth animation at the display extremes. VR3 affects LED1 and VR2 adjusts LED 10. Correctly adjusted, the LED should "move" back and forth with a smooth flowing action. </span><br /><br /> <b style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">Before moving on, some thoughts for experimenters.</b><br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > Instead of soldering the LEDs directly to the board, they can be connected using wires. This will allow the LEDs to be arranged in different patterns or shapes. The wires should be kept reasonably short to prevent instability of the LM3914 chip. I would recommend keeping the wires to less than 12"/300mm although longer lengths may well work fine. </span><br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > Try using different coloured LEDs.</span><br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-family:arial;" > An LM3915 can be used instead of the LM3914. The LM3915 is a logarithmic version of the '3914 and produces a display in which the LEDs "move" faster as more LEDs are lit up. This is quite a visually interesting variation especially when using the 20 LED versions of the circuit.</span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03515312546652168657noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3637090899990191050.post-10101851771402485292009-04-19T15:19:00.000-07:002009-04-19T15:26:21.295-07:00Power Supply LED Mod Guide<h1><a linkindex="1" href="http://www.overclockersclub.com/" title="Overclockers Club Homepage"><img src="http://i.overclockersclub.com/siteimages/occ_logo.gif" alt="" name="occlogo" id="occlogo" border="0" height="45" width="423" /></a></h1> <span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 102);font-size:100%;" ><strong> <a href="http://forums.overclockersclub.com/index.php?showuser=521" class="author_name">Former staff writer</a> - August 18, 2002</strong>
<br /><strong>Category: </strong><a href="http://www.overclockersclub.com/category/modding/">Modding</a>
<br /><strong>Price: </strong>$3.60
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<br /><div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 102);" id="body"> <div style="float: right; margin-left: 4px;"> </center></div></div><ul><li>2 LEDs Color of your Choice.
<br /></li><li>Wire (had around the house)</li><li>Wire Cutters (ditto)</li><li>Screw Driver (ditto)</li><li>Soldering Iron & Solder (ditto)</li><li>Electric Tape and Or Heat shrink Tubing (ditto)</li><li>Your Brain </li></ul><p><span style=";font-family:tahoma;font-size:100%;" > <li> Total Cost of this project: 3 bucks n' 60 cents and about an hour of time.
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<br /><strong><u>Disclaimer</u></strong>
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<br />Before we start I must tell you all, this was a first PSU mod for me.. and It was all trial and error, I intended to add 3 LEDs but 3 was to many for the 5volts to power, so in the middle of my guide I had to cut 1 LEDs out that is why you see 3 LEDs in the picture..
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<br /><strong>Disclaimer</strong>: Neither myself or OverclockersClub.com will be held reasonable if you hurt yourself in anyway or you blow your house up, by following this guide. Playing inside of a PSU is very dangerous - Even if the PSU has been shut off for a while there is always a deadly electrical charge in the capacitors!
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<br /><strong><u>Modding</u></strong>
<br />
<br />Now on with the good stuff! Alright To start off we need to take the victim apart..</li> </span></p> <p><span style="font-size:100%;"><img src="http://www.overclockersclub.com/siteimages/articles/powersupplyledmod/psu.jpg" alt="" border="0" height="241" width="215" /></span></p> <p><span style=";font-family:tahoma;font-size:100%;" > Here I have a Generic PSU, any PSU will work! Take out the screws (4 in my case) to get the cover off the PSU.</span></p> <p><span style="font-size:100%;"><a href="http://www.overclockersclub.com/reviews/powersupplyledmod/images/psucaseoff.htm" target="_blank"> <img alt="" src="http://www.overclockersclub.com/siteimages/articles/powersupplyledmod/psucaseoff_thumb.jpg" border="0" /></a></span></p> <p><span style=";font-family:tahoma;font-size:100%;" > Take a look around locate the purple wire (this wire is the Standby wire) The Standby wire supplies 5 volts at all
<br />times. As soon as you plug in your computer, power is ran though that wire which is were we will be installing our
<br />LED's. </span></p> <p><span style="font-size:100%;"><a target="_blank" href="http://www.overclockersclub.com/reviews/powersupplyledmod/images/psuwire.htm"> <img src="http://www.overclockersclub.com/siteimages/articles/powersupplyledmod/psuwire_thumb.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a></span></p> <p><span style=";font-family:tahoma;font-size:100%;" > Next get your wire out and we will be hooking the LEDs up.
<br />
<br />Cut off 1 short wire and 2 longer wires. Make sure to give yourself enough room on the small wire to work with, other words don't make it too small. Now connect your first long piece of wire to the positive leg (or wire) of the LED (remember the positive leg is always the longer leg). I would suggest you shorten the legs of the LEDs so you don't have to wrap them all the way to the bottom. Now that its connected, solder the wires together (this will give you the best connection) If you don't like to solder make sure you connect them tight. Once you have done that, usse heat shrink tubing on it and melt it down. If you don't have any heat shrink tubing then use some electrical tape. Make sure you cover all of the wires because you don't want them to touch anything.
<br />
<br />Now take a short wire and connect it to the negative LED leg, and solder or tape it together. Then finally take the last long piece of wire and connect it to the negative leg on the 2nd led. It will look something like this:</span></p> <p><span style="font-size:100%;"><a href="http://www.overclockersclub.com/reviews/powersupplyledmod/images/ledshookedup.htm" target="_blank"> <img alt="" src="http://www.overclockersclub.com/siteimages/articles/powersupplyledmod/ledshookedup_thumb.jpg" border="0" /></a></span></p> <p><span style=";font-family:tahoma;font-size:100%;" > Now on to the fun part! Cut the purple wire on the power supply in half and then strip the wires back. </span></p> <p><span style="font-size:100%;"><a target="_blank" href="http://www.overclockersclub.com/reviews/powersupplyledmod/images/standbycut.htm"> <img src="http://www.overclockersclub.com/siteimages/articles/powersupplyledmod/standbycut_thumb.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a></span></p> <p><span style=";font-family:tahoma;font-size:100%;" > Now connect the positive side of the LEDs to the purple wire. Solder and tape as needed. </span></p> <p><span style="font-size:100%;"><a href="http://www.overclockersclub.com/reviews/powersupplyledmod/images/standbyconnected.htm" target="_blank"> <img alt="" src="http://www.overclockersclub.com/siteimages/articles/powersupplyledmod/standbyconnected_thumb.jpg" border="0" /></a></span></p> <p><span style=";font-family:tahoma;font-size:100%;" > Now find your favorite black wire (Black is the ground wires) and cut one of those in half, and take the second long wire on the negative leg of the 2nd led and hook it on as you did with the positive one. Tape and solder as needed. </span></p> <p><span style="font-size:100%;"><a target="_blank" href="http://www.overclockersclub.com/reviews/powersupplyledmod/images/connecttoground.htm"> <img src="http://www.overclockersclub.com/siteimages/articles/powersupplyledmod/connecttoground_thumb.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a></span></p> <p><span style=";font-family:tahoma;font-size:100%;" > Now take your LEDs and tape them to where u want them to stay in the PSU. (Now I would suggest a glue gun to keep them there, but mine is broke at the moment so tape is what I am using).</span></p> <p><span style="font-size:100%;"><a href="http://www.overclockersclub.com/reviews/powersupplyledmod/images/ledsfirsttry.htm" target="_blank"> <img alt="" src="http://www.overclockersclub.com/siteimages/articles/powersupplyledmod/ledsfirsttry_thumb.jpg" border="0" /></a></span></p> <p><span style=";font-family:tahoma;font-size:100%;" >
<br />And then it will look like this! (this was my first try with 3 LEDs It wasn't very bright) Now plug in the PSU power cord and they should light up: </span></p> <p><span style="font-size:100%;"><img src="http://www.overclockersclub.com/siteimages/articles/powersupplyledmod/ledson.jpg" alt="" border="0" height="210" width="311" /></span></p> <p><span style=";font-family:tahoma;font-size:100%;" > If they do not light up, then you need to check the connections to the LEDs, and make sure they are all secure. Also make sure none of the wires are touching anything else but there own wires. If they are touching anything else it could ground them out, which will make it not light.
<br />
<br />Well I hope you enjoyed this guide, I hope it helped and I hope you give it a try! Stay tuned for Part 2 of this mod where I will be making a window for the PSU to see the lights in the case :)</span></p></div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03515312546652168657noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3637090899990191050.post-43562033178119410042009-04-19T14:46:00.000-07:002009-04-19T15:03:30.730-07:00Mouse Mod<table style="width: 400px; height: 6979px;" border="0"><tbody><tr><td bg="" style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0);"><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><strong></strong></span><span style=";font-family:arial;font-size:180%;" ><a style="color: rgb(255, 255, 255);" linkindex="1" href="http://www.gruntville.com/"><img src="http://www.gruntville.com/images/header-gv.jpg" border="0" height="65" width="432" /></a></span><br /></div><div style="text-align: left; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"><span style=";font-family:arial;font-size:180%;" ><strong>Mouse Mod </strong></span></div></td> </tr> <tr> <td align="center" valign="top"><table style="width: 408px; height: 213px;" align="center" border="0"> <tbody><tr> <td valign="top" width="207"><p><img style="width: 224px; height: 123px;" src="http://images.gruntville.com/images/how-to/mouse_mod/mousemod_t.jpg" /><span style=";font-family:Geneva,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:85%;" >By Shane "Smurf" Lu</span></p> <p><span style=";font-family:Geneva,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:85%;" > Total Cost: $5-$10<br /> Difficulty: 2 out of 10<br /> Risk Factor: 2 out of 10<br /> <br /> </span></p></td> <td style="text-align: left;" valign="top" width="309"><br /></td> </tr> </tbody></table></td> </tr> <tr> <td bg="" style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0);"> <span style="font-size:85%;"><strong> </strong></span><strong>Introduction</strong></td> </tr> <tr> <td><table style="width: 400px; height: 6714px;" border="0"> <tbody><tr> <td align="right"><div align="left"><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:85%;" >The mouse, the little rodent that sits next to our computer.<br />It makes our lives a million times easier.<br />The little rodent also gives us the ability to play games.<br />And, in this case, the little rodent is extremely ugly.<br />When modders want to mod something, the mouse usually doesn’t come to mind.<br />It’s always the case, the optical drives, or even the monitors.<br />Mice are often left out of the picture, however…<br /> </span><br /> </div></td> </tr> <tr> <td style="text-align: left;"><a linkindex="100" href="http://images.gruntville.com/images/how-to/mouse_mod/Painted.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://images.gruntville.com/images/how-to/mouse_mod/Painted_t.jpg" border="0" height="180" width="193" /></a></td> </tr> <tr> <td align="right"><div align="left"><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:85%;" ><br /> <br /></span><div style="text-align: left;"><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:85%;" > For me, a mouse mod seemed perfect for my system.<br />It blends well with the rest of my components.<br />I’m attempting to mod the mouse by drilling holes in it that will shine through with the light from the LED.<br />So obviously, this mod needs an optical mouse.<br />Next I will paint the mouse completely black.<br />The third step I added an LED to my existing one, so there were 2 LEDs inside my mouse. <br />And finally I will add a few glass rods inside to beam the light to the outside, as seen to the right.<br />This mouse mod is extremely easy and costs very little money.<br />It will look great at your next LAN party, and since it isn’t performed very often,<br />it may even get you a few compliments, or at least eyes ;-).<br />Well what are we waiting for?<br />Let’s</span>get started!<br /></div><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:85%;" ><br /></span><table style="width: 400px; height: 1142px;" border="0"><tbody><tr><td bg="" style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0);"><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:100%;" ><strong>Supplies </strong></span></td> </tr> <tr> <td><div align="center"> <table style="width: 447px; height: 1093px;" border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"> <tbody><tr> <td><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:85%;" >Here is a list of materials you will need to do the mod. However, what I have here may differ from you, based on the design of the mod, and the mouse itself.<br /> </span> </td> </tr> <tr> <td><table style="width: 400px; height: 951px;" border="1" bordercolor="#990000" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="3"> <tbody><tr> <td><div align="center"><img src="http://images.gruntville.com/images/how-to/mouse_mod/Other_t.gif" height="163" width="163" /></div></td> <td><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:85%;" >The Mouse itself, with a detachable top (I think just about every mouse has a screw or two you can take off to reveal the inside</span></td> </tr> <tr> <td><div align="center"><a linkindex="100" href="http://images.gruntville.com/images/how-to/mouse_mod/drill.JPG" target="_blank"><img src="http://images.gruntville.com/images/how-to/mouse_mod/drill_t.JPG" border="0" height="144" width="178" /></a></div></td> <td><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:85%;" >A Drill or some sort, to help cutting the holes in the mouse. I found an X-acto knife will work also when there is no drill available, but time wise, a drill is much easier, and makes a much better circle. (I would like to thank Lance Wilson for letting me use his drill.)</span></td> </tr> <tr> <td><div align="center"><a linkindex="101" href="http://images.gruntville.com/images/how-to/mouse_mod/drill_bits_for_modding.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://images.gruntville.com/images/how-to/mouse_mod/drill_bits_for_modding_t.jpg" border="0" height="144" width="181" /></a></div></td> <td><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:85%;" >Drill Bits. It’s best to have them vary in size so you can drill holes of different sizes. For my mod, I used one of the smallest bits</span></td> </tr> <tr> <td><div align="center"><a linkindex="102" href="http://images.gruntville.com/images/how-to/mouse_mod/Paint.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://images.gruntville.com/images/how-to/mouse_mod/Paint_t.jpg" border="0" height="180" width="136" /></a></div></td> <td><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:85%;" >Vinyl Dye Spray Paint, found at your local AutoZone or any automotive parts store.</span></td> </tr> <tr> <td><br /></td> <td><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:85%;" >Also, a screwdriver is needed to open your mouse. I assume everyone knows what a screwdriver looks like, so I will not take a picture of one.</span></td> </tr> <tr> <td><div align="center"><a linkindex="103" href="http://images.gruntville.com/images/how-to/mouse_mod/glass.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://images.gruntville.com/images/how-to/mouse_mod/glass_t.jpg" border="0" height="180" width="200" /></a></div></td> <td><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:85%;" >A glass rod for making cool light effects, found at Home Depot. </span></td> </tr> </tbody></table></td> </tr> <tr> <td><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:85%;" >I also bought a yellow LED to add to the mouse because I wanted it to give out different colors when I’m done.<br />RadioShack offers these for less than 3 dollars each.<br />When painting or drilling, an old piece of wood or platform may be helpful so you don’t drill or paint marks on the floor or table. </span> <p><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:85%;" ><br /> That’s all the supplies you need!<br /></span></p><p><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:85%;" >For me, this all added up to about less than 10 dollars US.<br /></span></p><p><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:85%;" >The Paint was 4.49, and the rods are about a dollar per foot, and LED are about 2-3 dollars each, but I already had some laying around the house.<br /></span></p><p><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:85%;" >Now we have supplies out of the way, let’s get ready to cut the mouse!</span></p></td></tr></tbody></table></div></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table border="0" width="600"><tbody><tr><td colspan="2" bg="" style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0);"><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:100%;" ><strong>Cutting the Mouse </strong></span></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2"><table style="width: 400px; height: 1190px;" border="1" bordercolor="#990000" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="3"> <tbody><tr> <td style="text-align: left;" width="38%"><img src="http://images.gruntville.com/images/how-to/mouse_mod/Screw_t.jpg" height="180" width="198" /></td> <td style="text-align: left;" width="62%"><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:85%;" >Since a mouse is relatively cheap and small, be creative with this step. Draw some designs out on paper or in your mind. If you want to cut shapes rather than circles, a Dremel may be your tool. But a word of warning with a Dremel is that the mouse is small and will be hard to hold with your hands while cutting. Have a partner stand by and help you, and hold the mouse top while you dremel away. If you have no friends or aren’t too handy with a dremel, a small file will be more accurate and much easier to handle. Before you do anything however, separate the mouse cover from the actual PCB before you drill. Take the screwdriver and loosen all the screws (normally found under the mice feet), then wiggle the mouse cover from the PCB. Be careful of the wheel; it may fall out, and I’ve found it’s excruciatingly hard to put back in place because of all its springs and connections.<br /> </span></td> </tr> <tr> <td><div align="center"><img src="http://images.gruntville.com/images/how-to/mouse_mod/drilled_t.JPG" height="180" width="197" /></div></td> <td><p><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:85%;" ><br /> I first started my mod with a bunch of circles. Very small circles, with a 1mm drill bit. I made many of them (hence what my friend calls “chicken pox”). Then I drilled to larger holes off to the side, where the glass rods will be inserted to. This step came later; these pictures are just the small holes.</span></p> <p><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:85%;" >That is a picture of the drill bit in the mouse. This particular mouse cover was rather thick, so I applied pressure when I drilled. Drill as many holes/shapes as you like, then if you need to, sand the mouse. In my case, I had no need to do so, so I left it the way it was.<br /> <br /> </span></p></td> </tr> <tr> <td><div align="center"><img src="http://images.gruntville.com/images/how-to/mouse_mod/Mouse1_t.jpg" height="180" width="201" /></div></td> <td><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:85%;" >Here are a few pictures of the mouse after it was drilled </span></td> </tr> <tr> <td><div align="center"><img src="http://images.gruntville.com/images/how-to/mouse_mod/Mouse2_t.jpg" height="180" width="196" /></div></td> <td><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:85%;" >That’s the whole cutting process! It is an easy process but makes a huge statement about the outcome of the mouse. Next, we get ready to paint the mouse.</span></td></tr></tbody></table></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table border="0" width="600"><tbody><tr><td bg="" style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0);"><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:100%;" ><strong>Painting</strong></span></td> </tr> <tr> <td><div align="center"><div style="text-align: left;"> </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><table style="width: 400px; height: 1614px;" border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"> <tbody><tr> <td><div style="text-align: left;"><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:85%;" >Before I started to paint the mouse, I washed my mouse cover with water and soap and dried it with a paper towel. This was necessary because the mouse is very greasy with fingerprints, and oil doesn’t mix well with black paint. There will be blotches on the mouse after you apply the paint. This paint here was specially made for car interiors, such as seats and dashboards, so this paint is very hard to rub off. It also gives off a shine after the coats have being applied.</span><br /></div><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:85%;" > <br /> </span></td> </tr> <tr> <td><div align="center"><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:85%;" ><a linkindex="100" href="http://images.gruntville.com/images/how-to/mouse_mod/Mouse3.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://images.gruntville.com/images/how-to/mouse_mod/Mouse3_t.jpg" border="0" height="180" width="187" /></a></span></div></td> </tr> <tr> <td><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:85%;" ><br /> This is everything I really needed to paint; an old piece of wood, my garage, the mouse cover and the paint itself. Notice there is a piece of duct tape on the mouse. I originally planned to save the Logitech symbol, but somehow that didn’t work out, so I ditched the idea after I painted. If you want to preserve your logo, do these steps, some of which I didn’t do:<br /> *Make an oval that is actually an oval, and cutting it with scissors don’t help.<br /> *Use duct tape because it is very easy to peel off even after 5-6 coats of paint.<br /> *Be careful when you rip the duct tape off; don’t peel the coat of paint already on the mouse.<br /> <br /> </span></td> </tr> <tr> <td><div align="center"><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:85%;" ><img src="http://images.gruntville.com/images/how-to/mouse_mod/Safe_t.jpg" border="0" height="180" width="200" /></span></div></td> </tr> <tr> <td><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:85%;" ><br /> If you want to be extra safe, like me, and don’t want lung cancer, go ahead and get a mask to protect yourself from the fumes. These fumes are very, very dangerous in terms of inhaling and contact with skin. </span><span style="font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"> <p><span style="font-size:85%;">Let’s paint! Muahahaha…<br /> </span></p></span><span style="font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><p><span style="font-size:85%;"> </span></p> </span></td> </tr> <tr> <td style="text-align: center;"><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:85%;" ><a linkindex="101" href="http://images.gruntville.com/images/how-to/mouse_mod/Mouse4.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://images.gruntville.com/images/how-to/mouse_mod/Mouse4_t.jpg" border="0" height="180" width="191" /></a></span></td> </tr> <tr> <td><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:85%;" ><br /></span><div style="text-align: left;"><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:85%;" > Here is my first coat of paint. It doesn’t coat the mouse all the way, because I only did 2 passes. These passes must be quick and light, because the paint spreads very fast, even though it may not cover every single side of the mouse. </span></div><span style="font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"> <p><span style="font-size:85%;">I waited for about 5 minutes between each coat. The nice thing about vinyl dye is that it dries extremely fast and will work on most if not all surfaces. On the second pass, I made it even lighter, which is pictured below.</span></p> </span> <p> <span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:85%;" ><br /> </span></p></td> </tr> <tr> <td style="text-align: left;"><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:85%;" ><a linkindex="102" href="http://images.gruntville.com/images/how-to/mouse_mod/Mouse5.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://images.gruntville.com/images/how-to/mouse_mod/Mouse5_t.jpg" border="0" height="180" width="182" /></a></span></td> </tr> <tr> <td><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:85%;" ><br /> Now it may be harder to tell the mouse from the board, because it is completely black. I waited for maybe 5 minutes this time, because I want the top of the coat to dry completely before applying another. The picture below was the 6th layer of paint.<br /> </span></td> </tr> <tr> <td style="text-align: left;"><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:85%;" ><a linkindex="103" href="http://images.gruntville.com/images/how-to/mouse_mod/Painted.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://images.gruntville.com/images/how-to/mouse_mod/Painted_t.jpg" border="0" height="180" width="193" /></a></span></td> </tr> <tr> <td><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:85%;" ><br /></span><div style="text-align: left;"><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:85%;" > Notice how shiny the paint is. That was no camera flash; that was the ceiling fluorescent light! The coats matched well and I was really impressed on how clear and reflective they were. A tip on painting is to be patient, and that paid off. After those 6 coats I realized the underside looked too bland, so I painted a coat there too. Now the mouse is completely black! One main reason I chose black paint is that the red really shines through those holes, and makes a huge statement when people walk past my computer. Now the painting is finished. What else must we do? Well I did some miscellaneous stuff to make it look even cooler. I added an LED, and put some glass rods in, which is displayed on the next page.</span></div></td></tr></tbody></table></div></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table border="0" width="600"><tbody><tr><td bg="" style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0);"><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:100%;" ><strong>Light it Up!</strong></span></td> </tr> <tr> <td><table style="width: 416px; height: 943px;" border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"> <tbody><tr> <td><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:85%;" ><br /> You could leave the mouse as it is now, and it would look amazing. But I went one step further, and added an extra yellow LED in there, and also 2 glass rods to really diffuse the light. First the LED; I didn’t solder like many people do, even though it is a great option. I simply connected the metal contacts together from the red existing LED to the yellow one, and super glued the LED to the rod where the screw holds the bottom part of the mouse together with the top. It worked flawlessly. Since I don’t have much soldering experience, this did the trick. Now every time I move mouse, the two LEDs shine extremely bright, and cam be seen across the room with the mouse cover on. Here’s a picture of the LED positioning:<br /> </span></td> </tr> <tr> <td><table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" width="100%"> <tbody><tr> <td width="45%"><div align="center"><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:85%;" ><a linkindex="100" href="http://images.gruntville.com/images/how-to/mouse_mod/dual_bottom.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://images.gruntville.com/images/how-to/mouse_mod/dual_bottom_t.jpg" border="0" height="162" width="216" /></a></span></div></td> <td width="55%"><div align="center"><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:85%;" ><a linkindex="101" href="http://images.gruntville.com/images/how-to/mouse_mod/LED.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://images.gruntville.com/images/how-to/mouse_mod/LED_t.jpg" border="0" height="180" width="188" /></a></span></div></td> </tr> </tbody></table></td> </tr> <tr> <td><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:85%;" >The yellow LED is to the right of the red LED. The red LED is covered by a plastic covering, and that’s why it isn’t showing up; the yellow color is reflected off of that plastic. </span><span style="font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"> <p><span style="font-size:85%;"> So now the LED is in place, how about the glass rods? That’s also very easy to do. Since the glass rod edges will diffuse the red and yellow together, there is no specific spot for where the rod has to be. So in those 2 huge holes I made on the cover, I simply cut the rod to a size where it meets the PCB and the moue top, blending it with the same kind of smoothness as the top itself.<br /> <br /> </span></p> </span></td> </tr> <tr> <td><div align="center"><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:85%;" ><a linkindex="102" href="http://images.gruntville.com/images/how-to/mouse_mod/install.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://images.gruntville.com/images/how-to/mouse_mod/install_t.jpg" border="0" height="180" width="215" /></a></span></div></td> </tr> <tr> <td><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:85%;" ><br /> See that light out of the end of the rod? That’s really something eh? I marked the edge of the rod with a sharpie, and I filed the edge of that mark, and simply broke it. It you don’t have a file, then you can take the long route by finding a butter knife, pressure the blade on the glass, and do a sawing motion for about a minute. By then the rod should be breakable. Use your shirt or a tissue to break, so particles of glass won’t cut you. After that, insert the rods in, and dip a little bit of super glue on the sides so it will stick to the top of the mouse. If you superglue it to the PCB, it may cause damage when you try to open it up again. After that, just put the cover back on and screw in the screw. Make sure the mouse is snug and tight. I had some problems where the screw wouldn’t go in properly. Here’s a picture with the mouse mod complete.<br /> <br /> </span></td> </tr> <tr> <td><div align="center"><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:85%;" ><a linkindex="103" href="http://images.gruntville.com/images/how-to/mouse_mod/Mouse6.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://images.gruntville.com/images/how-to/mouse_mod/Mouse6_t.jpg" border="0" height="180" width="191" /></a></span></div></td> </tr> <tr> <td><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:85%;" ><br /> The ceiling light, the speaker light, everything is reflected off the top. It really looks different from the original beige mouse, and I think it really looks cool! The glass rods make a lovely shine on the outside of the mouse, and the yellow LED is clearly seen in this picture.</span></td></tr></tbody></table></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table border="0" width="600"><tbody><tr><td bg="" style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0);"><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:100%;" ><strong>Conclusion</strong></span></td> </tr> <tr> <td><table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" width="100%"> <tbody><tr> <td><table style="width: 428px; height: 669px;" border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"> <tbody><tr> <td colspan="2"><p><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:85%;" ><br /> All in all, this mod was inexpensive, good looking, and a great experience. For the amount of time and money spent ($6.30 in my case), it was really worth it. There are endless possibilities to how to mod the mouse, and I have only taken one of them. The color of paint, design of holes, and the option of Lexan and Plexi are always present. I leave you here with a picture of before, middle, and after of the mouse I violated, and if you have any questions, go ahead and make a comment about it under the forums or drop me an email, found under Smurf (my handle) in the forums.</span></p> <p><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:85%;" ><br /> </span></p></td> </tr> <tr border="" style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0);"> <td width="57%"> <div align="center"><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:85%;" ><a linkindex="100" href="http://images.gruntville.com/images/how-to/mouse_mod/Original.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://images.gruntville.com/images/how-to/mouse_mod/Original_t.JPG" border="0" height="169" width="216" /></a><br /> </span></div></td> <td width="43%"><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:85%;" >Original Flavor</span></td> </tr> <tr border="" style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0);"> <td> <div align="center"><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:85%;" ><a linkindex="101" href="http://images.gruntville.com/images/how-to/mouse_mod/Mouse2.jpg" target="_blank"><br /> <img src="http://images.gruntville.com/images/how-to/mouse_mod/Mouse2_t.jpg" border="0" height="180" width="196" /></a><br /> </span></div></td> <td><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:85%;" >Crispy</span></td> </tr> <tr border="" style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0);"> <td> <div align="center"><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:85%;" ><a linkindex="102" href="http://images.gruntville.com/images/how-to/mouse_mod/Mouse7.jpg" target="_blank"><br /> <img src="http://images.gruntville.com/images/how-to/mouse_mod/Mouse7_t.jpg" border="0" height="180" width="202" /></a><br /> </span></div></td> <td><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:85%;" >Extra Crispy!</span></td></tr></tbody></table></td></tr></tbody></table></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><span style=";font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:85%;" ><br /></span></div></td></tr></tbody></table></td></tr></tbody></table>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03515312546652168657noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3637090899990191050.post-17675359359023995442009-04-19T14:11:00.001-07:002009-04-19T14:11:20.395-07:0010 Incredible PC Case Mods<table id="index" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><caption><br /></caption> <tbody> <tr> <!-- PROC_CURL2: http://www.pcmag.com/slideshow_viewer/0,1205,l%253D%2526a%253D239382%2526po%253D1,00.asp--><td><div><div><a linkindex="70" href="http://www.pcmag.com/slideshow_viewer/0,1205,l%253D%2526a%253D239382%2526po%253D1,00.asp?p=y"><img alt="1. Barbecue Grill PC" title="1. Barbecue Grill PC" src="http://common.ziffdavisinternet.com/util_get_image/23/0,1425,i=236792,00.jpg" border="0" height="85" width="85" /></a></div><p>1. Barbecue Grill PC</p></div></td><!-- PROC_CURL2: http://www.pcmag.com/slideshow_viewer/0,1205,l%253D%2526a%253D239382%2526po%253D2,00.asp--><td><div><div><a linkindex="71" href="http://www.pcmag.com/slideshow_viewer/0,1205,l%253D%2526a%253D239382%2526po%253D2,00.asp?p=y"><img alt="2. Battlestar Galactica Case Mod" title="2. Battlestar Galactica Case Mod" src="http://common.ziffdavisinternet.com/util_get_image/23/0,1425,i=236795,00.jpg" border="0" height="85" width="85" /></a></div><p>2. Battlestar Galactica Case Mod</p></div></td><!-- PROC_CURL2: http://www.pcmag.com/slideshow_viewer/0,1205,l%253D%2526a%253D239382%2526po%253D3,00.asp--><td><div><div><a linkindex="72" href="http://www.pcmag.com/slideshow_viewer/0,1205,l%253D%2526a%253D239382%2526po%253D3,00.asp?p=y"><img alt="3. Call of Duty Mod" title="3. Call of Duty Mod" src="http://common.ziffdavisinternet.com/util_get_image/23/0,1425,i=236799,00.jpg" border="0" height="85" width="85" /></a></div><p>3. Call of Duty Mod</p></div></td><!-- PROC_CURL2: http://www.pcmag.com/slideshow_viewer/0,1205,l%253D%2526a%253D239382%2526po%253D4,00.asp--><td><div><div><a linkindex="73" href="http://www.pcmag.com/slideshow_viewer/0,1205,l%253D%2526a%253D239382%2526po%253D4,00.asp?p=y"><img alt="4. The Great Pyramid" title="4. The Great Pyramid" src="http://common.ziffdavisinternet.com/util_get_image/23/0,1425,i=236793,00.jpg" border="0" height="85" width="85" /></a></div><p>4. The Great Pyramid</p></div></td></tr><tr><!-- PROC_CURL2: http://www.pcmag.com/slideshow_viewer/0,1205,l%253D%2526a%253D239382%2526po%253D5,00.asp--><td><div><div><a linkindex="74" href="http://www.pcmag.com/slideshow_viewer/0,1205,l%253D%2526a%253D239382%2526po%253D5,00.asp?p=y"><img alt="5. The Moo Cow Moo" title="5. The Moo Cow Moo" src="http://common.ziffdavisinternet.com/util_get_image/23/0,1425,i=236798,00.jpg" border="0" height="85" width="85" /></a></div><p>5. The Moo Cow Moo</p></div></td><!-- PROC_CURL2: http://www.pcmag.com/slideshow_viewer/0,1205,l%253D%2526a%253D239382%2526po%253D6,00.asp--><td><div><div><a linkindex="75" href="http://www.pcmag.com/slideshow_viewer/0,1205,l%253D%2526a%253D239382%2526po%253D6,00.asp?p=y"><img alt="6. Pink Floyd Computer Case Mod" title="6. Pink Floyd Computer Case Mod" src="http://common.ziffdavisinternet.com/util_get_image/23/0,1425,i=236791,00.jpg" border="0" height="85" width="85" /></a></div><p>6. Pink Floyd Computer Case Mod</p></div></td><!-- PROC_CURL2: http://www.pcmag.com/slideshow_viewer/0,1205,l%253D%2526a%253D239382%2526po%253D7,00.asp--><td><div><div><a linkindex="76" href="http://www.pcmag.com/slideshow_viewer/0,1205,l%253D%2526a%253D239382%2526po%253D7,00.asp?p=y"><img alt="7. Toaster Computer" title="7. Toaster Computer" src="http://common.ziffdavisinternet.com/util_get_image/23/0,1425,i=236790,00.jpg" border="0" height="85" width="85" /></a></div><p>7. Toaster Computer</p></div></td><!-- PROC_CURL2: http://www.pcmag.com/slideshow_viewer/0,1205,l%253D%2526a%253D239382%2526po%253D8,00.asp--><td><div><div><a linkindex="77" href="http://www.pcmag.com/slideshow_viewer/0,1205,l%253D%2526a%253D239382%2526po%253D8,00.asp?p=y"><img alt="8. Tumbler Batmobile PC" title="8. Tumbler Batmobile PC" src="http://common.ziffdavisinternet.com/util_get_image/23/0,1425,i=236797,00.jpg" border="0" height="85" width="85" /></a></div><p>8. Tumbler Batmobile PC</p></div></td></tr><tr><!-- PROC_CURL2: http://www.pcmag.com/slideshow_viewer/0,1205,l%253D%2526a%253D239382%2526po%253D9,00.asp--><td><div><div><a linkindex="78" href="http://www.pcmag.com/slideshow_viewer/0,1205,l%253D%2526a%253D239382%2526po%253D9,00.asp?p=y"><img alt="9. WALL-E Case Mod" title="9. WALL-E Case Mod" src="http://common.ziffdavisinternet.com/util_get_image/23/0,1425,i=236796,00.jpg" border="0" height="85" width="85" /></a></div><p>9. WALL-E Case Mod</p></div></td><!-- PROC_CURL2: http://www.pcmag.com/slideshow_viewer/0,1205,l%253D%2526a%253D239382%2526po%253D10,00.asp--><td><div><div><a linkindex="79" href="http://www.pcmag.com/slideshow_viewer/0,1205,l%253D%2526a%253D239382%2526po%253D10,00.asp?p=y"><img alt="10. Whiskey PC" title="10. Whiskey PC" src="http://common.ziffdavisinternet.com/util_get_image/23/0,1425,i=236794,00.jpg" border="0" height="85" width="85" /></a></div><p>10. Whiskey PC</p></div></td><td> </td></tr></tbody></table>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03515312546652168657noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3637090899990191050.post-38353442317353142582009-04-19T14:08:00.000-07:002009-04-19T14:09:13.468-07:00The Craziest PC Case Mods of All Time<table id="index" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><caption><br /></caption> <tbody> <tr> <!-- PROC_CURL2: http://www.pcmag.com/slideshow_viewer/0,1205,l%253D207769%2526a%253D207762%2526po%253D1,00.asp--><td><div><div><a linkindex="71" href="http://www.pcmag.com/slideshow_viewer/0,1205,l%253D207769%2526a%253D207762%2526po%253D1,00.asp?p=y"><img alt="1. CompuBeaver (Built April 2007)" title="1. CompuBeaver (Built April 2007)" src="http://common.ziffdavisinternet.com/util_get_image/17/0,1425,i=175910,00.jpg" border="0" height="85" width="85" /></a></div><p>1. CompuBeaver (Built April 2007)</p></div></td><!-- PROC_CURL2: http://www.pcmag.com/slideshow_viewer/0,1205,l%253D207769%2526a%253D207762%2526po%253D2,00.asp--><td><div><div><a linkindex="72" href="http://www.pcmag.com/slideshow_viewer/0,1205,l%253D207769%2526a%253D207762%2526po%253D2,00.asp?p=y"><img alt="2. GerbilPC (Built January 2007)" title="2. GerbilPC (Built January 2007)" src="http://common.ziffdavisinternet.com/util_get_image/17/0,1425,i=175913,00.jpg" border="0" height="85" width="85" /></a></div><p>2. GerbilPC (Built January 2007)</p></div></td><!-- PROC_CURL2: http://www.pcmag.com/slideshow_viewer/0,1205,l%253D207769%2526a%253D207762%2526po%253D3,00.asp--><td><div><div><a linkindex="73" href="http://www.pcmag.com/slideshow_viewer/0,1205,l%253D207769%2526a%253D207762%2526po%253D3,00.asp?p=y"><img alt="3. Leela Futurama (Built November 2006)" title="3. Leela Futurama (Built November 2006)" src="http://common.ziffdavisinternet.com/util_get_image/17/0,1425,i=175906,00.jpg" border="0" height="85" width="85" /></a></div><p>3. Leela Futurama (Built November 2006)</p></div></td><!-- PROC_CURL2: http://www.pcmag.com/slideshow_viewer/0,1205,l%253D207769%2526a%253D207762%2526po%253D4,00.asp--><td><div><div><a linkindex="74" href="http://www.pcmag.com/slideshow_viewer/0,1205,l%253D207769%2526a%253D207762%2526po%253D4,00.asp?p=y"><img alt="4. Stained Glass PC (Built September 2006)" title="4. Stained Glass PC (Built September 2006)" src="http://common.ziffdavisinternet.com/util_get_image/17/0,1425,i=175904,00.jpg" border="0" height="85" width="85" /></a></div><p>4. Stained Glass PC (Built September 2006)</p></div></td></tr><tr><!-- PROC_CURL2: http://www.pcmag.com/slideshow_viewer/0,1205,l%253D207769%2526a%253D207762%2526po%253D5,00.asp--><td><div><div><a linkindex="75" href="http://www.pcmag.com/slideshow_viewer/0,1205,l%253D207769%2526a%253D207762%2526po%253D5,00.asp?p=y"><img alt="5. Skeleton Case Mod (Built July 2006)" title="5. Skeleton Case Mod (Built July 2006)" src="http://common.ziffdavisinternet.com/util_get_image/17/0,1425,i=175907,00.jpg" border="0" height="85" width="85" /></a></div><p>5. Skeleton Case Mod (Built July 2006)</p></div></td><!-- PROC_CURL2: http://www.pcmag.com/slideshow_viewer/0,1205,l%253D207769%2526a%253D207762%2526po%253D6,00.asp--><td><div><div><a linkindex="76" href="http://www.pcmag.com/slideshow_viewer/0,1205,l%253D207769%2526a%253D207762%2526po%253D6,00.asp?p=y"><img alt="6. Unidyne Mic Case Mod (Built April 2006)" title="6. Unidyne Mic Case Mod (Built April 2006)" src="http://common.ziffdavisinternet.com/util_get_image/17/0,1425,i=175908,00.jpg" border="0" height="85" width="85" /></a></div><p>6. Unidyne Mic Case Mod (Built April 2006)</p></div></td><!-- PROC_CURL2: http://www.pcmag.com/slideshow_viewer/0,1205,l%253D207769%2526a%253D207762%2526po%253D7,00.asp--><td><div><div><a linkindex="77" href="http://www.pcmag.com/slideshow_viewer/0,1205,l%253D207769%2526a%253D207762%2526po%253D7,00.asp?p=y"><img alt="7. LEGO PC (Built February 2006)" title="7. LEGO PC (Built February 2006)" src="http://common.ziffdavisinternet.com/util_get_image/17/0,1425,i=175911,00.jpg" border="0" height="85" width="85" /></a></div><p>7. LEGO PC (Built February 2006)</p></div></td><!-- PROC_CURL2: http://www.pcmag.com/slideshow_viewer/0,1205,l%253D207769%2526a%253D207762%2526po%253D8,00.asp--><td><div><div><a linkindex="78" href="http://www.pcmag.com/slideshow_viewer/0,1205,l%253D207769%2526a%253D207762%2526po%253D8,00.asp?p=y"><img alt="8. Waffle Iron PC (Built August 2005)" title="8. Waffle Iron PC (Built August 2005)" src="http://common.ziffdavisinternet.com/util_get_image/17/0,1425,i=175905,00.jpg" border="0" height="85" width="85" /></a></div><p>8. Waffle Iron PC (Built August 2005)</p></div></td></tr><tr><!-- PROC_CURL2: http://www.pcmag.com/slideshow_viewer/0,1205,l%253D207769%2526a%253D207762%2526po%253D9,00.asp--><td><div><div><a linkindex="79" href="http://www.pcmag.com/slideshow_viewer/0,1205,l%253D207769%2526a%253D207762%2526po%253D9,00.asp?p=y"><img alt="9. PainMaster 5000 (Built June 2005)" title="9. PainMaster 5000 (Built June 2005)" src="http://common.ziffdavisinternet.com/util_get_image/17/0,1425,i=175909,00.jpg" border="0" height="85" width="85" /></a></div><p>9. PainMaster 5000 (Built June 2005)</p></div></td><!-- PROC_CURL2: http://www.pcmag.com/slideshow_viewer/0,1205,l%253D207769%2526a%253D207762%2526po%253D10,00.asp--><td><div><div><a linkindex="80" href="http://www.pcmag.com/slideshow_viewer/0,1205,l%253D207769%2526a%253D207762%2526po%253D10,00.asp?p=y"><img alt="10. ToiletPC (Built August 2001)" title="10. ToiletPC (Built August 2001)" src="http://common.ziffdavisinternet.com/util_get_image/17/0,1425,i=175912,00.jpg" border="0" height="85" width="85" /></a></div><p>10. ToiletPC (Built August 2001)</p></div></td><td> </td></tr></tbody></table>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03515312546652168657noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3637090899990191050.post-63087259867547781832009-04-19T13:38:00.000-07:002009-04-19T13:43:36.715-07:00Making a custom PC enclosure with Protocase<span style="font-family: arial; font-weight: bold; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);font-size:180%;" ><a href="http://www.tomshardware.com/us/">TOM'S HARDWARE</a></span><br /><br /><h3>Introduction</h3> <p><img src="http://img.tomshardware.com/us/2007/01/25/making-a-custom-pc-enclosure-with-protocase/protocase_title_image.jpg" alt="" /></p> <p>PC customization has exploded in recent years, but it's important to remember that computer customization has always been around. It's just that today, it seems to be more for style's sake than it ever has been before.</p> <p>Before style was much of an issue, in those long-forgotten days of the one-color-fits-all beige PC cases, there were still compelling reasons to customize a PC. For instance, let's say you wanted a PC enclosure to fit in the trunk of your car to host an elaborate MP3 playing system. There wasn't too much out there in terms of enclosures that you could buy "off the rack" to suit your needs. This is just one scenario, of course; there are an infinite number of other reasons people would need a specialized enclosure, and they still apply today.</p> <p>So where do you turn to, when you need a PC case designed and machined for your specific requirements? You go to a company that specializes in custom manufacturing of PC enclosures. Enter Protocase, a custom PC enclosure designing and manufacturing company with multiple offices in North America.</p><h3>Review Of Design Process</h3> <p>When I was asked to work with Protocase to design a completely unique PC enclosure, I was immediately intrigued by the idea. Here was an opportunity to truly create something different, to show a little creativity and watch something transform from an idea into the tangible. Once I came up with a unique idea for a THG-themed cylindrical case, I couldn't wait to take it to the next step!</p> <p>Later, once I began to think about all of the variables that have to be taken into account when designing something that has to function properly, I began to feel a little intimidated by the project. Sure, I've been putting PCs together for over a decade, but what do I really know about the nuances of PC case design? What are the little things that I was bound to forget?</p> <p>After my first glance at the Protocase website, I really started to sweat. Don't misunderstand me: the Protocase site offers excellent in-depth and informative articles on enclosure design, fasteners and silk screening. There are even links to a free download of Protocase's in-house design tool called Protocase Designer .</p> <p>For an actual engineer, all of these tools must be wonderful; I can imagine that with the right skill set, a person could mold their brainchild conveniently on their desktop PC at home. But I'm no engineer, so I became even more intimidated. What had I gotten myself into? I have a background with a little CAD program experience, but mostly I'm a 3D visualization guy, not an engineer.</p> <p>Not knowing even where to start, I decided to abandon my cylindrical THG dream case and go for something a little more realistic. The good people at Protocase provided me with a simple ATX case template, so I contented myself with creating a pattern for cutting the THG logo into the side and front of the case. I made a 3D model of the idea and rendered a prototype image in 3DStudio MAX; I thought, hey, this is no revolution in PC enclosures, but it's not so bad after all.</p> <p><img src="http://img.tomshardware.com/us/2007/01/25/making-a-custom-pc-enclosure-with-protocase/protocase_prot_1.jpg" alt="" /></p> <h6>Our first not-so-lofty try at a custom PC design</h6> <p>Pretty nifty, huh? I thought so, and decided it was time to submit this humble case design to Christa, my contact at Protocase, for manufacturing.</p><h3>Review Of Design Process, Continued</h3> <p>Christa's response was a bit sobering. She seemed surprised that I'd submitted something so simple and wanted me to reconsider the design, suggesting that the folks at Protocase could perhaps design something a little more exciting for our article if I gave them some input.</p> <p>The Protocase team was willing to hold my hand through the process, and fill in the blanks that I could not. All I really had to do was submit my idea to them and they'd flesh it out. This is one of the strengths of working with a company like Protocase: if you can do it yourself they're happy to simply manufacture your well thought out plans - but if all you have is a rough idea and no experience making a PC case, they will help you from start to finish.</p> <p>Excited at the prospect of resurrecting my original cylindrical design, I excitedly sketched it out on a scribbled piece of paper, and faxed it to Protocase.</p> <p><img src="http://img.tomshardware.com/us/2007/01/25/making-a-custom-pc-enclosure-with-protocase/protocase_prot_sktch.jpg" alt="" /></p> <h6>Attempt number 2, the scrawlings of a madman</h6> <p>Christa thought this idea was pretty cool, and even more importantly, doable. Armed with the new design idea, she went to work to make it happen. It turns out that I had been experiencing anxiety about this project for no real reason, as all I had to do was send them a sketch of my idea and the folks at Protocase were happy to work out the rest.</p> <p>A couple of days passed, and Christa sent me images showing how the design was coming along. I was impressed at how quickly it took shape, and was given the opportunity to make comments and give input every step of the way.</p> <p>After a few iterations, when we finally thought we were finished the design process, Christa sent me files that could be viewed with Solidworks' eDrawings software, a freeware 2D and 3D CAD viewer. This is what it looked like.</p> <p><img src="http://img.tomshardware.com/us/2007/01/25/making-a-custom-pc-enclosure-with-protocase/protocase_prot_2.gif" alt="" /></p> <h6>The second design, translated to CAD by Protocase's staff</h6> <p>Looking good! I gave Christa the official stamp of approval, and go-ahead for the case to begin manufacturing. The Protocase team really came through for me as far as fleshing out the design, but then the question became: how close would the final, actual hardware come to the design?</p><h3>Results</h3> <p>As you can see, not only was the final result faithful to the design, it was also extremely well made. The fit and finish of the case is excellent, and the powder-coated paint job top-notch and durable. Well done, Protocase!</p> <p><img src="http://img.tomshardware.com/us/2007/01/25/making-a-custom-pc-enclosure-with-protocase/protocase_side.jpg" alt="" /></p> <h6>Side view of the finished case</h6> <p><img src="http://img.tomshardware.com/us/2007/01/25/making-a-custom-pc-enclosure-with-protocase/protocase_front.jpg" alt="" /></p> <h6>Front view of the finished case</h6> <p>Check out the detail they achieved with the intricate Tom's Hardware logos and fan cutouts.</p> <p><img src="http://img.tomshardware.com/us/2007/01/25/making-a-custom-pc-enclosure-with-protocase/protocase_frontlogo.jpg" alt="" /></p> <h6>The THG logo cutout on the front of the case, making the intake fan a little prettier.</h6> <p><img src="http://img.tomshardware.com/us/2007/01/25/making-a-custom-pc-enclosure-with-protocase/protocase_sidelogo.jpg" alt="" /></p> <h6>The THG logo cutout on the side of the case, also masking an intake fan.</h6><br /><h3>Results, Continued</h3> <p>In addition to being stylish, the case is also utilitarian. It's quite large and comfortable to work with, sturdy, and everything fits in it just like it should.</p> <p><img src="http://img.tomshardware.com/us/2007/01/25/making-a-custom-pc-enclosure-with-protocase/protocase_mobo.jpg" alt="" /></p> <h6>The case shown with the side panel removed and an installed motherboard.</h6> <p><img src="http://img.tomshardware.com/us/2007/01/25/making-a-custom-pc-enclosure-with-protocase/protocase_psu.jpg" alt="" /></p> <h6>The rear view of the case with a PSU installed.</h6> <p><img src="http://img.tomshardware.com/us/2007/01/25/making-a-custom-pc-enclosure-with-protocase/protocase_mounts.jpg" alt="" /></p> <h6>Optical drive mounts on the inside of the case.</h6> <p><img src="http://img.tomshardware.com/us/2007/01/25/making-a-custom-pc-enclosure-with-protocase/protocase_handles.jpg" alt="" /></p> <h6>Handles on the top of the case (this touch was included by Protocase, by the way!)</h6> <p>The only thing I could possibly complain about here is that Protocase does not supply any electronics at all with the case. While this seems like common sense, it would have been nice if they had included a power button for the front; I'm sure other clients would value that service as well. But that's nit picking, really; what matters is that Protocase delivered an amazing physical realization of a simple sketch. The possibilities are endless, and I have no doubt that the folks at Protocase can deliver on whatever they promise.</p><br /><h3>Conclusion</h3> <p>To conclude, let's have a look at the financial costs of building a custom case like this one.</p> <p>The actual manufacturing and painting of the case came to about $1130. In addition, there was about $330 of set-up fees, so the total invoice was about $1460.</p> <p>Frankly, that sounds about right to me. Keep in mind that the staff spent quite a few hours with me designing and revising the case, and all of that was included in the set-up fee. I'd imagine that if I had been experienced enough to design it from the ground up in the format that they required, the fee would have been less.</p> <p>As for the manufacturing, Protocase's pricing seems to be the going rate, if not a little low. It's hard to judge because I couldn't find a lot of competitors in this field, but from what I did see, you could spend a lot more than $1130 on manufacturing a completely custom case.</p> <p>In the final analysis, Protocase provided a really well-built case, completely to my specifications, in a timely fashion, and at a reasonable price. I can say with absolute confidence that if you're considering getting a custom case manufactured, you owe it to yourself to consider Protocase for the job.</p> <h3>Author's Opinion</h3> <p>I wish all companies were as much of a pleasure to work with as Protocase was during the course of this review. Thanks to Sagar and Christa for their patience; it was a really interesting experience, and thanks for making that spiffy THG case for us to enjoy.</p><p><br /></p>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03515312546652168657noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3637090899990191050.post-55906194016059025912009-03-25T08:57:00.001-07:002009-03-25T08:57:23.298-07:00LED center<h1><a linkindex="0" href="http://led.linear1.org/">LED center</a></h1> <!--// header //--> <ul><li id="categories"> <ul><li><a linkindex="1" href="http://led.linear1.org/category/led-basics/" title="Articles that cover the basic operation of LEDs.">LED basics</a> </li><li><a linkindex="2" href="http://led.linear1.org/category/led-lighting/" title="Articles discussing LEDs in lighting applications.">LED lighting</a> </li><li><a linkindex="3" href="http://led.linear1.org/category/led-science/" title="Technical articles that dig deeper into the science of LEDs.">LED science</a> </li><li><a linkindex="4" href="http://led.linear1.org/category/practical-leds/" title="Information of interest to hobbyists wanting to learn more about using LEDs in their projects.">Practical LEDs</a> </li><li><a linkindex="5" href="http://led.linear1.org/category/led-products/" title="A look at LED items you can purchase.">LED products</a> </li></ul> </li></ul>prof. Máriohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13538472024237273816noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3637090899990191050.post-417146758761192472009-03-25T08:44:00.000-07:002009-03-25T08:50:32.538-07:00PWM Fan controller<div style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);" id="page-head"> <b>Author:</b> Dave Williams<br /> <b>Published:</b> 3rd December 2001 <div class="contribute"> <a linkindex="16" class="email" href="http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/2001/12/03/pwm_fan_controller/email" title="Email this article to a friend">Email to a friend</a> <a linkindex="17" class="stumble" href="http://www.stumbleupon.com/submit?url=http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/2001/12/03/pwm_fan_controller/1&title=PWM%20Fan%20controller" title="Stumble this article" target="_blank">Stumble</a> </div> </div> <!-- /article header --> <!-- article navigation --><br /><!-- Article Start --><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"> PWM or Pulse Width Modulation has generally been regarded as too complicated for PC fan speed control compared against using rheostats or linear voltage regulators such as the LM317. I present here a PWM circuit that is simple and cheap enough to be built by the casual electronics builder.</span><br /> <br /><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"> Why would you want to use PWM instead of a rheostat or voltage regulator? Well, like most things, each method has it's own strengths and disadvantages:</span><br /> <br /> <u style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"><h2>Rheostats</h2></u><br /> <b style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);">Pros: </b><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);">Cheap and easy to use.</span><br /> <br /> <b style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);">Cons: </b><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);">Difficult to find suitable rheostats, introduces current limiting causing the fan to fail to start or stall at slow speed settings.</span><br /> <br /> <br /> <u style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"><h2>Linear voltage regulators</h2></u><br /> <b style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);">Pros: </b><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);">Does not have rheostat like current limiting, temperature control can be incorporated.</span><br /> <br /> <b style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);">Cons: </b><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);">Regulator can generate considerable heat which limits the maximum fan power. (The more powerful the fan, the more heat is generated), maximum output voltage to the fan can be several volts less than the supply limiting the maximum cooling from the fan. (A by-pass switch can be fitted to eliminate this problem, but this adds to the complexity of the circuit).</span><br /> <br /> <br /> <u style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"><h2>PWM</h2></u><br /> <b style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);">Pros: </b><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);">As linear voltage regulator, plus comparatively little heat is generated by the circuit allowing higher powered fans to be used, output is virtually 0-100%, eliminating the need for a bypass switch, fans do not stall or fail to start at minimum fan speed.</span><br /> <br /> <b style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);">Cons: </b><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);">The fan speed sensing is disabled, can cause "growling" noises at very low speed settings with some fans.</span><br /> <br /> <br /><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"> What is PWM? In simple terms, PWM involves rapidly switching the supply to the fan on and off, in this case 30 times a second, (30Hz). By altering the relative on to off times the average voltage "seen" by the fan is also altered. E.G. Assuming a 12V supply, when the on/off ratio = 50%/50% the fan will "see" 6V, likewise when the on/off ratio is 75%/25% the fan "sees" 9V. Obviously 100% output is achieved by having the output on continuously and at 0% the output is off. It is this on/off switching that makes the fan speed sensor inoperative.</span><br /> <br /><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"> The circuit uses a purpose made chip, MIC502 made by MICREL. Fan speed is adjusted by varying VR1. With the component values shown the output is 40%-100%. ( 4.8 - 12V). So far every fan I have tested runs at 4.8V. To guarantee the fan starts when the computer is switched on, the chip automatically runs the fan at full output for approximately 2 seconds before dropping to the preset speed. Changing the value of R1 and R2 to 7K5 ohms will give an output range of 0% - 100%. </span><br /> <br /><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"> If desired, R1 and R2 can be replaced with 22K variable preset resistors to allow exact tailoring of the control range. Varying R1 will alter the maximum output, whilst R2 controls the minimum. Note these adjustments are interactive with each other and will require some trial and error to achieve the desired range. The diode, D1 is to protect the transistor from reverse voltage spikes when switching the fan off. Using modern DC axial fans should not be a problem and D1 may be considered optional. Since I cannot test every possible device people may connect to the circuit I have included D1 for completeness. </span><br /> <br /><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"> On the other hand, the decoupling capacitor, C2 is NOT optional. During testing it became apparent that the chip does not like "noisy" supplies. E.G. My 350W " Enermax has very long leads and poor quality connectors. This does not help maintain a clean supply. Things may be different for you but I consider C2 to be necessary. C1 sets the pulse frequency, in this case 30Hz. </span><br /> <br /><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"> During testing "growl" noise at low speeds was not a problem. If "growl" is a problem with your specific fan then changing the value of C1 should help. Use the formula C = 3/f where C is in microfarad (uF) and f is the desired frequency in hertz (Hz). Try frequencies in the range 30-100 Hz. R4 limits the base current to the transistor T1. T1 is rated at 5A which equates to 60W of fan!! In practise the circuit should be capable of running any reasonable number of case fans. With several powerful fans connected the transistor may get warm so a small heatsink may be required. </span><br /> <br /><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"> Several channels can be made to make a multi channel fan bus. Only one "C2" is required if all the channels are built on the same board. Looking at the circuit diagram, the "+12V" and "0V" terminals connect to the respective connections on the PSU Molex connector. The "FAN+" and "FAN-" connect to the corresponding +v and -v terminals on the fan.</span><br /> <br /> <a style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);" linkindex="19" href="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2001/12/pwm_fan_controller/1.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2001/12/pwm_fan_controller/1small.jpg" alt="PWM Fan controller Simple PWM Fan Controller" border="0" /></a><br /> <br /> <b style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);">Adding Temperature control.</b><br /> <a style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);" linkindex="20" href="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2001/12/pwm_fan_controller/2.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2001/12/pwm_fan_controller/2small.jpg" alt="PWM Fan controller Simple PWM Fan Controller" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"> Here the resistor R1 has been replaced with a thermistor to give temperature control. The fan speed is set by VR1 and as the temperature rises, so the fan speed will increase to compensate.</span><br /> <br /> <a style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);" linkindex="21" href="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2001/12/pwm_fan_controller/3.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2001/12/pwm_fan_controller/3small.jpg" alt="PWM Fan controller Simple PWM Fan Controller" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"> This version is identical to the temperature control above, except for the addition of a "sleep" setting. The idea is to turn the fan off when the temperature falls below the value set by VR2.</span><br /><br /><b style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);">Building the circuit.</b><br /> <br /> <img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2001/12/pwm_fan_controller/4.jpg" alt="PWM Fan controller Building the circuit" border="0" /><br /><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"> Here is an example of the built circuit on a small piece of stripboard. The 2p coin gives an indication of size. I have not included the diode D1 in this example.</span><br /> <br /> <img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2001/12/pwm_fan_controller/5.jpg" alt="PWM Fan controller Building the circuit" border="0" /><br /><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"> Side view.</span><br /> <br /> <img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2001/12/pwm_fan_controller/6.jpg" alt="PWM Fan controller Building the circuit" border="0" /><br /><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"> General layout of components.</span><br /> <br /> <img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2001/12/pwm_fan_controller/7.jpg" alt="PWM Fan controller Building the circuit" border="0" /><br /><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"> Under side of the board showing the breaks in the stripboard tracks. Note the use of solder bridges to link leads on IC1.</span><br /> <br /> <img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2001/12/pwm_fan_controller/8.jpg" alt="PWM Fan controller Building the circuit" border="0" /><br /><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"> Underside of the board showing component locations.</span><br /> <br /> <b style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);">Component List: </b><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);">figures in brackets are </span><b style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"><a linkindex="20" href="http://www.rapidelectronics.co.uk/" target="_blank">Rapid Electronics</a></b><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"> stock codes.</span><br /><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"> IC1 = MIC502BN (82-4026)</span><br /><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"> T1 = TIP122 (81-0172)</span><br /><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"> D1 = 1N4001 (47-3420)</span><br /><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"> R1 = 10K (62-2146)</span><br /><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"> R2 = 15K (62-2154)</span><br /><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"> R4 = 270R (62-2070)</span><br /><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"> VR1 = 10K Linear (65-0715)</span><br /><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"> VR2 = 47K Linear (65-0725)</span><br /><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"> Thermistor = (61-0515)</span><br /><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"> C1 = 0.1uF (10-3220)</span><br /><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"> C2 = 220uF 25V (11-0265) </span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03515312546652168657noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3637090899990191050.post-42431996245561361122009-03-25T08:39:00.000-07:002009-03-25T08:43:57.470-07:00Matrix Orbital MX610 LCD display<div style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" id="page-head"> <b>Author:</b> Geoff Richards<br /> <b>Published:</b> 18th October 2005 <div class="contribute"> <a linkindex="16" class="discuss" href="http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/2005/10/18/matrix_orbital_mx6/comments" title="Comment on this article">Comments (38)</a> <a linkindex="17" class="email" href="http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/2005/10/18/matrix_orbital_mx6/email" title="Email this article to a friend">Email to a friend</a> <a linkindex="18" class="stumble" href="http://www.stumbleupon.com/submit?url=http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/2005/10/18/matrix_orbital_mx6/1&title=Matrix%20Orbital%20MX610%20LCD%20display" title="Stumble this article" target="_blank">Stumble</a> </div> </div> <!-- /article header --> <!-- article navigation --> <div style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" class="page-nav"> <select name="page" onchange="document.location.href = this.value;"> <optgroup label="Pages"> <option value="/modding/2005/10/18/matrix_orbital_mx6/1" selected="selected">1 - Introduction</option> <option value="/modding/2005/10/18/matrix_orbital_mx6/2">2 - The Bundle</option> <option value="/modding/2005/10/18/matrix_orbital_mx6/3">3 - Installation</option> <option value="/modding/2005/10/18/matrix_orbital_mx6/4">4 - LCDC Tutorial</option> <option value="/modding/2005/10/18/matrix_orbital_mx6/5">5 - Alternatives</option> <option value="/modding/2005/10/18/matrix_orbital_mx6/6">6 - Conclusions</option> </optgroup> <optgroup label="____________________"> <option value="/modding/2005/10/18/matrix_orbital_mx6/comments">Comments (38)</option> <option value="/modding/2005/10/18/matrix_orbital_mx6/email">Email to a friend</option> </optgroup> </select> <a linkindex="19" class="next" href="http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/2005/10/18/matrix_orbital_mx6/2" title="The Bundle">Next page</a> </div> <!-- /article navigation --> <!-- article body --> <div style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" id="page-copy"> <!-- Article Start --> <div style="text-align: center; clear: both;"><img src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2005/10/matrix_orbital_mx6/header.jpg" alt="Matrix Orbital MX610 LCD display Introduction" border="0" /></div><br />When most think of drivebay LCD displays, they think of just one company: <a linkindex="20" href="http://www.matrixorbital.com/" target="_blank">Matrix Orbital</a>. With good reason too - they make some of the best programmable LCD displays on the market, and have been doing so for the past decade. It is nearly 4 years now since <i>bit-tech</i> reviewed Matrix Orbital's first PC-based products, and we have closely followed their progress ever since.<br /><br /><br /><a linkindex="21" href="http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/2003/10/03/orac3_part2/1.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2005/10/matrix_orbital_mx6/orac3.jpg" alt="Matrix Orbital MX610 LCD display Introduction" border="0" /></a> <a linkindex="22" href="http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/2003/09/15/vesperdeco/1.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2005/10/matrix_orbital_mx6/vesperdeco.jpg" alt="Matrix Orbital MX610 LCD display Introduction" border="0" /></a><br />Matrix Orbital displays have featured in a number of our big case mod projects over the years: most people would instantly recognise <a linkindex="23" href="http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/2003/10/03/orac3_part2/1.html" target="_blank">Orac³</a> and <a linkindex="24" href="http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/2003/09/15/vesperdeco/1.html" target="_blank">Vesperdeco</a> (pictured) and resident Grand-daddy of modding, Dave 'Macroman' Williams, is a fan, employing them for both <a linkindex="25" href="http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/2002/11/17/project_3g_clear/1.html" target="_blank">Project 3G Clear</a> and <a linkindex="26" href="http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/2005/09/01/macro_black/1.html" target="_blank">Macro Black</a>. Over the years, there has been no finer LCD display than a Matrix Orbital.<br /><br /><br /><h2>What the modders innovate, the mainstream imitate</h2> While the hardcore modders live on the bleeding edge, blowing up various components at their own expense in the pursuit of their latest mad invention, there is an entire industry of mainstream manufacturers trawling the internet trying to spot the next must-have product in waiting.<br /><br />Take LEDs fans and window-modded cases. To modders, they are <i>so</i> 2001, but walk into any mainstream computer store these days and you will see that both concepts are now truly mainstream. Blowholes? Rounded cables? Watercooling? All have the modding community to thank for daring to wonder 'What If?', one rainy Saturday afternoon, years ago.<br /><br /><br /><img src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2005/10/matrix_orbital_mx6/sb83g5m.jpg" alt="Matrix Orbital MX610 LCD display Introduction" border="0" /> <img src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2005/10/matrix_orbital_mx6/shuttle.jpg" alt="Matrix Orbital MX610 LCD display Introduction" border="0" /><br />Naturally, the idea of front-mounted LCD displays aren't immune to this process, and Shuttle have recently incorporated a VFD to the front of their Media Center-ready <a linkindex="27" href="http://global.shuttle.com/Product/Barebone/SB83G5M.asp" target="_blank">SB85G5M</a> barebones, set to display song titles, DVD timecodes and other useful information. Naturally, we found a couple of hidden uses when the case was shown to us at <a linkindex="28" href="http://www.bit-tech.net/bits/2005/06/02/computex_coverage/1.html" target="_blank">Computex 2005</a>. Shuttle have also used the same VFD in their just-announced <a linkindex="29" href="http://www.bit-tech.net/news/2005/10/17/shuttle_xpc_media_center/" target="_blank">XP Media Center</a>.<br /><br /><img src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2005/10/matrix_orbital_mx6/beblu.jpg" alt="Matrix Orbital MX610 LCD display Introduction" border="0" /><br />Of course, such displays are becoming quite commonplace, thanks to the explosion in the Home Theatre PC market. <a linkindex="30" href="http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/2005/10/11/beblu_media_center/1.html" target="_blank">beblu's Media Center</a> has a neat, four line LCD which displays all the information you need in clear, white text on a blue background. Information like track title and duration are automatically output to the LCD by Media Center.<br /><br />With front-mounted LCD displays now firmly in the mainstream, are the days of the discrete, programmable LCD display numbered? We grabbed the most recent model from Matrix Orbital, th MX6, to find out.<br /><img style="width: 740px; height: 300px;" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2005/10/matrix_orbital_mx6/mx6.jpg" alt="Matrix Orbital MX610 LCD display Introduction" border="0" /> <!-- Article End --> </div> <!-- /article body --> <!-- article navigation --><br /><h2 style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">he Bundle</h2><img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2005/10/matrix_orbital_mx6/01.jpg" alt="Matrix Orbital MX610 LCD display The Bundle" border="0" /> <img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2005/10/matrix_orbital_mx6/02.jpg" alt="Matrix Orbital MX610 LCD display The Bundle" border="0" /><br /><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"> First impressions are good. The display comes packed securely in a very sturdy box, so wherever you live on this blue planet of ours, you can be sure your MX6 will arrive in one piece. Sadly, the same cannot be said of every sample we receive. Everything comes neatly bagged, and the display itself has an extra layer of bubble wrap just to be safe.</span><br /> <img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2005/10/matrix_orbital_mx6/03.jpg" alt="Matrix Orbital MX610 LCD display The Bundle" border="0" /> <img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2005/10/matrix_orbital_mx6/04.jpg" alt="Matrix Orbital MX610 LCD display The Bundle" border="0" /><br /><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"> The model we received dispenses with the old RS232 serial interface for the more modern USB. As standard, the MX6 comes with a USB cable which loops out the back and into a rear USB port (see installation). If you have internal, on-board USB headers on your motherboard, you can order the optional internal USB cable. This gives a neater result, and saves you a rear port. Both cables are sleeved in sexy silver braiding. Also from the options list is a pair of external temperature probes.</span><br /> <br /> <img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2005/10/matrix_orbital_mx6/05.jpg" alt="Matrix Orbital MX610 LCD display The Bundle" border="0" /> <img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2005/10/matrix_orbital_mx6/06.jpg" alt="Matrix Orbital MX610 LCD display The Bundle" border="0" /><br /><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"> Straight out of the box, the MX6 displays the usual Matrix Orbital quality. Solidly built, it weighs a purposeful 180g or so with USB cable - this is certainly no cheap, flimsy Made In China plastic garbage. The chassis is made from 2mm steel and doesn't bend under stress. This model - the MX610 - has the multi-function keypad, but you can also buy the same display with a plain bezel for a cleaner look (MX620 / 630).</span><br /> <br /><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"> All displays in the MX6 series are 20 x 2, meaning there are two rows of 20 characters. Unlike many other Matrix Orbital displays, which use a </span><a style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" linkindex="21" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vacuum_fluorescent_display" target="_blank">Vacuum fluorescent display (VFD)</a><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">, the MX6 uses a Polymer LED screen. PLED has the advantage of lower power consumption, a very wide viewing angle (160 degrees) and a fast response time / pixel refresh rate. </span><br /> <img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2005/10/matrix_orbital_mx6/07.jpg" alt="Matrix Orbital MX610 LCD display The Bundle" border="0" /> <img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2005/10/matrix_orbital_mx6/08.jpg" alt="Matrix Orbital MX610 LCD display The Bundle" border="0" /><br /><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"> Moving around to the rear reveals the inner workings. The PCB is in two layers: the first is dedicated to driving the display, while the outer layer handles I/O. On the left are three channels for the temperature probes, while next to it are three General Purpose Outputs (GPOs) which can be used for fans. There is also a floppy drive power connector if more power is required than the USB port can provide - 150mA for an unpowered hub; 500mA from a high powered USB port.</span><br /><br /><h2 style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">Hardware installation</h2><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">The physical installation, at least in theory, couldn't be easier - just plug it into a USB port, and you're done. In reality, the quirks of our test rig made things a little more challenging.</span><br /> <br /><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"> The first obvious issue is that we have an </span><a style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" linkindex="21" href="http://www.antec.com/us/productDetails.php?ProdID=15138" target="_blank">Antec Sonata</a><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"> - an all round great case by all means - however, it has a door that stealths the drive bays. Fortunately, it can be removed, but in truth, any front-mounted LCD like the MX6 is far better suited to doorless cases like the Lian Li PC60 we used for </span><a style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" linkindex="22" href="http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/2004/09/21/project_synapse/1.html" target="_blank">Project Synapse</a><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">.</span><br /> <br /><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"> The second issue is more serious. The Sonata, and many other cases, employs quick release rails for its 5.25" drive bays: screw them to your DVD drive, and you can slide it in / out just by pinching the tabs. This means none of the usual mucking around with mounting screws, and wondering if you put any on the far side that you can never reach. This is a problem because the mounting tabs on the MX6 are only only 60mm long - long enough to line up with the first row of mounting holes on a conventional case.</span><br /> <br /> <br /> <img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2005/10/matrix_orbital_mx6/09.jpg" alt="Matrix Orbital MX610 LCD display Installation" border="0" /> <img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2005/10/matrix_orbital_mx6/10.jpg" alt="Matrix Orbital MX610 LCD display Installation" border="0" /><br /><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"> The solution was only partially successful: mount the rails as normal, using only the first set of holes, and just tighten the screw </span><i style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">really</i><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"> tightly. The display slides into place and the tabs lock into place, but not securely enough to press the keypad buttons without the whole assembly sliding back inside the case. Prospective buyers with quick release cases like the Sonata might want to consider their mounting options carefully.</span><br /> <br /> <br /> <img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2005/10/matrix_orbital_mx6/12.jpg" alt="Matrix Orbital MX610 LCD display Installation" border="0" /> <img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2005/10/matrix_orbital_mx6/11.jpg" alt="Matrix Orbital MX610 LCD display Installation" border="0" /><br /><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"> As mentioned earlier, the standard design uses a loop-through USB cable, passing out through an empty PCI backplate and into a rear USB port. If your computer room is as dusty as ours, we'd strongly recommend opting for the internal USB cable and keep that rear PCI plate screwed in place. With power applied, we are greeted by a funky welcome message.</span><br /> <br /> <br /> <h2 style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">Software installation</h2><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">The software installation was far easier, thanks to USB. </span><br /> <br /> <img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2005/10/matrix_orbital_mx6/cd.jpg" alt="Matrix Orbital MX610 LCD display Installation" border="0" /> <img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2005/10/matrix_orbital_mx6/device_manager.jpg" alt="Matrix Orbital MX610 LCD display Installation" border="0" /><br /><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"> Just pop the mini CD into the drive (slot-loading users beware!) and participate in the familiar Next - Next - Next - Finish ritutal. The MX6 was detected first time, and the drivers on the CD worked like a charm. Now that Windows knows it's there, it was time to install some software to make it display something useful.</span><br /> <br /> <img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2005/10/matrix_orbital_mx6/lcdc_config.jpg" alt="Matrix Orbital MX610 LCD display Installation" border="0" /><br /><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"> Matrix Orbital bundle </span><a style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" linkindex="23" href="http://www.lcdc.cc/" target="_blank">LCDC</a><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">, which would otherwise cost US$19.50 +VAT. LCDC is what you use to program the MX6 (and all other Matrix Orbital displays) to display information on the screen. 'Program' is the operative word - as we will discover, this is no fluffy, Wizard-driven application. Gone are the days when such displays required Visual Basic skills to </span><a style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" linkindex="24" href="http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/2001/11/12/matrix_orbital_lcd/3.html" target="_blank">program your own interface</a><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">, but users expecting a friendly GUI with simple menu options will very quickly break into a nervous sweat and start reaching for the PDF manual.</span><br /> <br /><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"> Let the fun begin... </span><br /><!-- /article navigation --> <!-- article body --> <!-- Article Start --><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"> </span><h2 style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">LCDC Tutorial</h2><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">The heart of LCDC revolves around the Screen Builder. Here you can define one, or several, screens to display on your MX6. The can be pure text or you can design your own logos. Using plugins available for common programs such as Winamp, you can import variable such as Track Name and Time Remaining to design your own interface. Here is a simple, plain text example:</span><br /> <br /> <a style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" linkindex="20" href="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2005/10/matrix_orbital_mx6/lcdc1.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2005/10/matrix_orbital_mx6/lcdc1_s.jpg" alt="Matrix Orbital MX610 LCD display LCDC Tutorial" border="0" /></a> <a style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" linkindex="21" href="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2005/10/matrix_orbital_mx6/lcdc2.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2005/10/matrix_orbital_mx6/lcdc2_s.jpg" alt="Matrix Orbital MX610 LCD display LCDC Tutorial" border="0" /></a><br /> <div style="text-align: center; clear: both; font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"><b>click for full size</b></div><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">Having created a blank screen, we can name it, set its duration, frame rate and decide on the transition between this screen and any subsequent one. The Fade in/out is particularly sexy. Moving to the Lines screen, we simply type into the text box for Line 1 and Line 2 respectively and set variables like Alignment and Scroll. The text appears on the display as you type it:</span><br /> <br /> <img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2005/10/matrix_orbital_mx6/test.jpg" alt="Matrix Orbital MX610 LCD display LCDC Tutorial" border="0" /><br /> <br /><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"> Moving on to something more useful, we created a quick Winamp screen to display our music information. There are a few pre-defined screens included with the software - to display the time for example - but we preferred to make a custom Winamp screen.</span><br /> <br /> <a style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" linkindex="22" href="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2005/10/matrix_orbital_mx6/winamp1.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2005/10/matrix_orbital_mx6/winamp1_s.jpg" alt="Matrix Orbital MX610 LCD display LCDC Tutorial" border="0" /></a> <a style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" linkindex="23" href="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2005/10/matrix_orbital_mx6/winamp2.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2005/10/matrix_orbital_mx6/winamp2_s.jpg" alt="Matrix Orbital MX610 LCD display LCDC Tutorial" border="0" /></a><br /> <div style="text-align: center; clear: both; font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"><b>click for full size</b></div><div style="text-align: center; clear: both; font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"><img src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2005/10/matrix_orbital_mx6/moby.jpg" alt="Matrix Orbital MX610 LCD display LCDC Tutorial" border="0" /></div><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">Again, using Screen Builder, it was a case of selecting the desired information and inserting it into the location on either line. This is where things start to get a little crazy: the line text becomes a series of barely intelligable codes, and the madness doesn't stop there. We thought it would be fun to convert the new </span><i style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">bit-tech</i><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"> logo into the right format to display on the MX6. </span><br /> <br /><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"> After much frustrating research, we discovered we were missing a program: </span><a style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" linkindex="24" href="http://www.lcdc.cc/downloads.htm" target="_blank">Char Mapper</a><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">. Rather than a nice bitmap conversion program, to display a graphic or logo using LCDC, you have to create a Custom Character set with the image chopped up into the appropriate 5x8 pixel chunks per character.</span><br /> <br /> <img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2005/10/matrix_orbital_mx6/charmap_s.jpg" alt="Matrix Orbital MX610 LCD display LCDC Tutorial" border="0" /><br /> <br /> <div style="text-align: center; clear: both; font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"><img src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2005/10/matrix_orbital_mx6/bt_logo.jpg" alt="Matrix Orbital MX610 LCD display LCDC Tutorial" border="0" /></div><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"> To build the logo, the letters 'bit-tech' were entered on Line 2 in plain text. We then imported the Custom Character set created using Char Mapper, which features the round logo and 'dot net' text using 5x2 blocks. The end result is far from perfect, and the creation process was arduous: filling in each pixel in Char Mapper using Photoshop as a guide, having overlayed a grid on our logo JPG in the image editing software. After lots of edits and resaving the character set, we discovered a new-found respect for the people who contributed many of the pre-defined screens available for download from </span><a style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" linkindex="25" href="http://www.lcdforums.com/gallery/" target="_blank">the LCDC gallery.</a><br /> <br /><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"> While there is a Motherboard Monitor plugin, and can directly support three temperature probes, we found the work required to build the necessary screens and programming the GPOs using LCDC to be more work than it should be. Anyone just wanting to know the temperature of their PC's innards would be better buying a </span><a style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" linkindex="26" href="http://www.kustom.co.uk/acatalog/info_2845.html" target="_blank">cheap LCD probe</a><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"> for a quarter of the price.</span><br /> <br /><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"> We got there in the end, but the experience raises an interesting question: would you rather total control or ease of use? </span><br /> <br /><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"> LCDC will allow you to output virtually anything to the MX6, but Matrix Orbital themselves admit that 'the learning curve is steep'. For many enthusiasts, programming innovative new screens is part of the experience - many feature clever animations and other advanced tricks. However, for the part-time geek just wanting to put a cool LCD on the front of his HTPC, having to program things themselves will be daunting.</span><br /> <br /><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"> There is, of course, an active </span><a style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" linkindex="27" href="http://forums.lcdc.cc/" target="_blank">LCDC Community</a><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"> on hand to help out new users, but we would have preferred to see more pre-defined work included on the CD, and an easier-to-use way to display the most common functions than using the overly complicated LCDC.</span><br /><h2 style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">Alternatives</h2><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">There are now a number of options available for users wanting to display information on the front of the computer; options that didn't exist 4 years ago when Matrix Orbital first became popular with modders. Before we can pass judgement on the MX6, we need to look at the alternatives.</span><br /> <br /> <h2 style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">Option A: PSOne LCD mod</h2><b style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">Cost:</b><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"> £26.99 / US$34.99</span><br /> <b style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">From:</b><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"> eBay</span><br /> <b style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">Difficulty:</b><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"> Moderate</span><br /> <br /><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"> bit-tech regular Brian Walker aka bEE2643 was one of the first people to perform this mod, way back in July 2004. Essentially, it involves buying a cheap Sony PSOne LCD from eBay, stripping it down, mounting the display somewhere cool, and hooking it up to the TV-Out of your graphics card. We have a detailed article titled </span><a style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" linkindex="21" href="http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/2004/07/07/psone_lcd/1.html" target="_blank">PSOne LCD in a PC</a><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"> and the related </span><a style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" linkindex="22" href="http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?t=62951" target="_blank">Forum Thread</a><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"> has become a central meeting point for many modders to ask questions and help each other.</span><br /> <br /> <img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2005/10/matrix_orbital_mx6/psone.jpg" alt="Matrix Orbital MX610 LCD display Alternatives" border="0" /> <img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2005/10/matrix_orbital_mx6/psone_circuit.jpg" alt="Matrix Orbital MX610 LCD display Alternatives" border="0" /><br /> <img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2005/10/matrix_orbital_mx6/winamp.jpg" alt="Matrix Orbital MX610 LCD display Alternatives" border="0" /> <img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2005/10/matrix_orbital_mx6/metaverse2.jpg" alt="Matrix Orbital MX610 LCD display Alternatives" border="0" /> <br /><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"> 4 hours later, and you have your own 5-inch, 640x480 TFT capable of displaying anything your heart desires. You just set it as your secondary display, and you can use an extended desktop to position any window into place. Winamp is naturally a popular option. Alternatively, you can use </span><a style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" linkindex="23" href="http://www.samurize.com/" target="_blank">Samurize</a><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"> to display some seriously funky stuff, like Nexxo's </span><a style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" linkindex="24" href="http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?t=29556" target="_blank">Project Metaversa</a><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"> (right), detailing crucial temperature and waterflow information.</span><br /> <br /> <br /> <h2 style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">Option B: In-car LCD mod</h2><b style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">Cost:</b><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"> £60-150 / US$120</span><br /> <b style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">From:</b><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"> eBay or various stores</span><br /> <b style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">Difficulty:</b><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"> Moderate</span><br /> <br /><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"> This mod is very similar to the PSOne mod above, but uses more sophisticated LCDs designed for in-car DVD systems. Most are 7-8 inches across and many are 16:9 widescreen. The more expensive ones even have touchscreens. Specifications vary wildly, with resolutions as low as 320x240, but </span><a style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" linkindex="25" href="http://www.kustom.co.uk/acatalog/info_6090.html" target="_blank">KustomPCs</a><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"> sell a one capable of 800x480. eBay is a good source, though most sellers ship directly from Hong Kong or China, so it isn't for the timid.</span><br /> <br /> <img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2005/10/matrix_orbital_mx6/car_lcd.jpg" alt="Matrix Orbital MX610 LCD display Alternatives" border="0" /> <img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2005/10/matrix_orbital_mx6/tbreak_lcd_shuttle.jpg" alt="Matrix Orbital MX610 LCD display Alternatives" border="0" /><br /><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"> Mounting options are similar to the PSOne mod. One cool option would be to buy a motorised in-dash screen and mount it in a drive bay under your DVD writer. One touch of the button, and out pops the LCD - the ultimate LAN party showboating feature. Abbas Jaffarali at Tbreak.com gets a special mention for creating </span><a style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" linkindex="26" href="http://www.tbreak.com/reviews/article.php?id=372" target="_blank">a really nice example</a><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"> using a Shuttle SB86i and a 5-inch car LCD.</span><br /> <br /> <br /> <h2 style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">Option C: 14"-17" TFT monitor mod</h2><b style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">Cost:</b><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"> from £100 / US$170</span><br /> <b style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">From:</b><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"> NewEgg or various stores</span><br /> <b style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">Difficulty:</b><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"> Moderate</span><br /> <br /><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"> Now that desktop LCD prices have fallen through the floor, turning an entire [/i]side[/i] of your PC into a display is now within the budget of many modders. bit-tech forum regular, CharlieCat, is a veteran at this one - he has now created </span><a style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" linkindex="27" href="http://www.loonatic.com/" target="_blank">three systems</a><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"> using this technique.</span><br /> <br /> <img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2005/10/matrix_orbital_mx6/server.jpg" alt="Matrix Orbital MX610 LCD display Alternatives" border="0" /> <img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2005/10/matrix_orbital_mx6/bulky2.jpg" alt="Matrix Orbital MX610 LCD display Alternatives" border="0" /><br /><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"> Depending on the size of your case, and the size of your budget, you can pick up a bargain 15" LCD for around £100; NewEgg has several models for US$170. The resolution will be 1024x768 and the viewing angle will be pretty rubbish, so you might be better off saving up a few extra pennies and plumping for a 17" model. Just £125 / $200 will net 17 inches, 1280x1024 and a 12ms refresh rate.</span><br /> <br /> <br /> <h2 style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">Option D: New case with LCD</h2><b style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">Cost:</b><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"> from £188 to £500</span><br /> <b style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">From:</b><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"> </span><a style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" linkindex="28" href="http://www.kustom.co.uk/acatalog/Kustom_PCs_Shop_HTPC_Cases_96.html" target="_blank">Kustom PCs</a><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"> or </span><a style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" linkindex="29" href="http://www.scan.co.uk/Products/ProductInfo.asp?WebProductID=283842" target="_blank">Scan</a><br /> <b style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">Difficulty:</b><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"> Easy</span><br /> <br /><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"> There are off-the-shelf options, including the Shuttle and beblu systems already mentioned, the latter available in a case-only option. Another leading manufacturer in this field is Silverstone - they make </span><a style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" linkindex="30" href="http://www.silverstonetek.com/product-case.htm" target="_blank">several cases</a><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"> that feature bezel-mounted VFD displays similar to the Matrix Orbital's range.</span><br /> <br /> <img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2005/10/matrix_orbital_mx6/lc14.jpg" alt="Matrix Orbital MX610 LCD display Alternatives" border="0" /> <img style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2005/10/matrix_orbital_mx6/lc18.jpg" alt="Matrix Orbital MX610 LCD display Alternatives" border="0" /><br /><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"> Most of the range have a stylish A/V receiver-look to their appearance, like the LC14BM (left). Truthfully, they are all available without VFD also, for considerably less. The most famous Silverstone case of them all is the </span><a style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" linkindex="31" href="http://www.silverstonetek.com/products-lc18.htm" target="_blank">LC18</a><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"> (right), which sports a 7" touchscreen LCD on the front bezel as standard. However, at </span><a style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" linkindex="32" href="http://www.scan.co.uk/Products/ProductInfo.asp?WebProductID=283842" target="_blank">£500 from Scan</a><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">, you certainly pay a premium for not doing the work yourself. </span><br /><br /><h2 style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">Conclusions</h2><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">Back when this trend began, your choice was simple: Matrix Orbital or </span><a style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" linkindex="21" href="http://www.crystalfontz.com/" target="_blank">Crystal Fontz</a><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">. The concept was new, so high prices, small sizes and </span><a style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" linkindex="22" href="http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/2001/11/12/matrix_orbital_lcd/1.html" target="_blank">DIY software</a><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"> was part of the adventure. However, that was four years ago now and in 2005, our expectations are vastly different.</span><br /> <br /><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"> Matrix Orbital displays have always been extremely well made but also expensive, and this extends to the MX6. US customers will pay US$109.99 for the display plus accessories. </span><a style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" linkindex="23" href="http://www.kustom.co.uk/acatalog/Displays.html" target="_blank">KustomPCs</a><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"> sell them in the UK, but with the extra shipping and VAT, the price blows out to £76. However, the 20 x 2 configuration of the MX6 is somewhat limiting: it occupies a full 5.25" drive bay, yet you can only display 2 lines of text at a time.</span><br /> <br /><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"> We found most of the community-made screens and animations aimed at the larger 20 x 4 models, showing that most customers (quite rightly) prefer the extra real estate of the four-line displays. Matrix Orbital don't offer a four-line PLED display, so by the time you switch to the more expensive VFD technology and supersize an extra 2 lines, you're looking at an MX5 for US$149.99 / £98.99.</span><br /> <br /><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"> At that price, you're looking at three times the price of a PSOne LCD mod, and rapidly approaching the budget required for a 15" LCD monitor mod. Even the cheaper two-line MX6 is twice the price of a PSOne project.</span><br /> <br /><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"> You would hope then that Matrix Orbital's software bundle would rescue the situation, but sadly, it too is stuck in a time bubble. There is no denying that LCDC is very powerful. All credit to the LCDC team: for what is essentially a homebrew application, it offers fine control over every facet of the MX6's feature set. Without it, people would probably be left to code their own software.</span><br /> <br /><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"> However, it is far from polished and while we didn't experience any bugs per se, the hoops the user is required to jump through to output information to the screen leave much to be desired. From a usability point of view, it is arguably software designed by programmers, for programmers - code-shy novice users beware.</span><br /> <br /><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"> Considering that HTPC enthusiasts would be a large part of the MX6's target market, it is positively criminal that it is not Media Center compatible. Again, if one had the determination and skill, one could use LCDC to produce your own custom screens to display various HTPC activities. If you were seriously hardcore, you might even code your own Media Center plug-in for LCDC. However, having forked out big bucks for this display, this functionality should be a mere installation wizard away - it should not be down the community to write their own software.</span><br /> <br /><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);"> If the MX6 was £20, you might be more forgiving, considering the additional sensor inputs, fan headers and general potential to make it do whatever you want it to do. At four times that price, functionality should be delivered on a silver platter, not be a box full of Lego. Faced with cheaper alternatives with far greater abilities, it is hard to recommend the MX6 to anyone but the most hardcore fanatic.</span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03515312546652168657noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3637090899990191050.post-15653199584909482052009-03-25T08:28:00.000-07:002009-03-25T08:35:12.532-07:00Case Engraving: Star Wars<div style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);" id="page-head"> <b>Author:</b> bit-tech Staff<br /> <b>Published:</b> 1st August 2005 <div class="contribute"> <a linkindex="16" class="discuss" href="http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/2005/08/01/star_wars_etching/comments" title="Comment on this article">Comments (21)</a> <a linkindex="17" class="email" href="http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/2005/08/01/star_wars_etching/email" title="Email this article to a friend">Email to a friend</a> <a linkindex="18" class="stumble" href="http://www.stumbleupon.com/submit?url=http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/2005/08/01/star_wars_etching/1&title=Case%20Engraving:%20Star%20Wars" title="Stumble this article" target="_blank">Stumble</a> </div> </div> <!-- /article header --> <!-- article navigation --> <div style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);" class="page-nav"> <select name="page" onchange="document.location.href = this.value;"> <optgroup label="Pages"> <option value="/modding/2005/08/01/star_wars_etching/1" selected="selected">1 - Etch-a-Sketch</option> <option value="/modding/2005/08/01/star_wars_etching/2">2 - The Dark Side</option> <option value="/modding/2005/08/01/star_wars_etching/3">3 - The Light Side</option> <option value="/modding/2005/08/01/star_wars_etching/4">4 - Final result</option> </optgroup> <optgroup label="____________________"> <option value="/modding/2005/08/01/star_wars_etching/comments">Comments (21)</option> <option value="/modding/2005/08/01/star_wars_etching/email">Email to a friend</option> </optgroup> </select> <a linkindex="19" class="next" href="http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/2005/08/01/star_wars_etching/2" title="The Dark Side">Next page</a> </div> <!-- /article navigation --> <!-- article body --> <!-- Article Start --> <div style="text-align: center; clear: both; font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"><img src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2005/08/star_wars_etching/header.jpg" alt="Case Engraving: Star Wars Etch-a-Sketch" border="0" /></div><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);">This article is all about me engraving a Lian Li PCV1000B, to turn it into a Star Wars tribute case. Doing engravings with a Dremel is something that just becomes more and more popular, so after a successful </span><a style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);" linkindex="20" href="http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/2005/01/26/hellraiser_puzzlebox/1.html" target="_blank">Hellraiser mod</a><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);">, I'm back for another go. I'll be giving some tips and pointers in this article that will hopefully be of some help, and maybe will inspire you to start doing some Dremel-work yourself.</span><br /> <br /> <i style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);">(Editor's Note: If you're interested, you might also like to check out our <a linkindex="21" href="http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/2005/06/17/Engraving_for_modder/1.html" target="_blank">Engraving - A Modder's How To</a> article.)</i><br /> <br /> <div style="text-align: center; clear: both; font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"><img src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2005/08/star_wars_etching/pcv1000b.jpg" alt="Case Engraving: Star Wars Etch-a-Sketch" border="0" /></div><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);">This is the raw canvas for this project, the Lian Li PCV1000B.</span><br /> <br /> <br /> <h2 style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);">Choosing the image</h2><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);">Choosing the right picture to etch is very important. If you are a beginner try and choose images without any shadows and too much detail - a simple, clean line is a lot easier to get right, so stick to clear, line-based designs. If you want to do something a little more difficult, try adding in some very fine detail. A good way to play with an image is to use Photoshop - you will be able to use the various tools to trace over a very complicated image on a new layer and create a simple line drawing from it.</span><br /> <br /> <br /> <h2 style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);">How do I get my sketch onto the chassis?</h2><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);">When you've got your image printed and ready to engrave, you'll need to apply it to the case so that you have some lines to follow - the easiest way to do this is by using carbon paper. It's a simple technique: put the carbon paper where you want your etch, take the line drawing, and use a (tough) pen to trace over it. This will transfer it to the carbon paper, which is very thin and should transfer the tracing to the case's surface. If you've got some major artistic talent you could do it by freehand, but that is much harder. </span><br /> <br /> <br /> <h2 style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);">Other things to Consider</h2><ul style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"><li>Make sure that you have a good working position - a kitchen table or something like that works fine for me.<br /></li><li>Don't rush, take it slow and be careful, because one mistake can be the difference between a great engraving and a poor one.<br /></li><li>If you have some pieces of left-over plexi or even an old chassis, use that for practice before you attack your main case. </li></ul><br /><h2 style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);">Right Side Engraving</h2><div style="text-align: center; clear: both; font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"><img src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2005/08/star_wars_etching/rightside1.jpg" alt="Case Engraving: Star Wars The Dark Side" border="0" /></div><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);">I came up with the idea of doing the Dark Side on the right of the case and the Light Side on the left. On the right, I decided to have Boba Fett.</span><br /> <br /> <br /> <div style="text-align: center; clear: both; font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"><img src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2005/08/star_wars_etching/rightside2.jpg" alt="Case Engraving: Star Wars The Dark Side" border="0" /></div><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);">Here you can see the clean and clear lines that the carbon paper makes on the case. A good sketch makes it much easier to work with the Dremel on top.</span><br /> <br /> <br /> <div style="text-align: center; clear: both; font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"><img src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2005/08/star_wars_etching/rightside3.jpg" alt="Case Engraving: Star Wars The Dark Side" border="0" /> <img src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2005/08/star_wars_etching/rightside4.jpg" alt="Case Engraving: Star Wars The Dark Side" border="0" /></div><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);">With Boba Fett done, an evil dude named Darth appears...</span><br /> <br /> <br /> <div style="text-align: center; clear: both; font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"><img src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2005/08/star_wars_etching/boba1.jpg" alt="Case Engraving: Star Wars The Dark Side" border="0" /> <img src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2005/08/star_wars_etching/boba2.jpg" alt="Case Engraving: Star Wars The Dark Side" border="0" /></div><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);">Here's the final result. As you can see engraving on black aluminum gives incredible sharp and crisp lines. This also means that mistakes show too - be careful not to make any big ones! Whilst the engraving might look weird up close, it looks great when seen as a whole.</span><br /><br /><h2 style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);">Left Side Engraving</h2><div style="text-align: center; clear: both; font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"><img src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2005/08/star_wars_etching/yoda1.jpg" alt="Case Engraving: Star Wars The Light Side" border="0" /></div><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);">The original sketch of Yoda on carbon paper had quite a lot of tight detail.</span><br /> <br /> <br /> <div style="text-align: center; clear: both; font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"><img src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2005/08/star_wars_etching/yoda2.jpg" alt="Case Engraving: Star Wars The Light Side" border="0" /> <img src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2005/08/star_wars_etching/yoda3.jpg" alt="Case Engraving: Star Wars The Light Side" border="0" /></div><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);">Unfortunately, I had to tone down the detail a little when doing the engraving, since the design looked a little too 'busy'. However, with that done, the left side needed something more - another Star Wars logo did the trick. This made Yoda appear more clear and helped to get the right balance in the design. </span><br /> <br /><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"> Time for another coffee break, and then on to the top of the case. </span><br /> <br /> <h2 style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);">Top Etch</h2><div style="text-align: center; clear: both; font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"><img src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2005/08/star_wars_etching/storm1.jpg" alt="Case Engraving: Star Wars The Light Side" border="0" /> <img src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2005/08/star_wars_etching/storm2.jpg" alt="Case Engraving: Star Wars The Light Side" border="0" /></div><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);">This was by far the easiest engraving to do, but it turned out quite well. With an hour's work, an angry Stormtrooper was giving me the evil eye from the top of the case.</span><br /><br /><h2 style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);">The Final result</h2><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);">Here are some candyshots of the finished case:</span><br /> <br /> <div style="text-align: center; clear: both; font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"><img src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2005/08/star_wars_etching/final.jpg" alt="Case Engraving: Star Wars Final result" border="0" /></div><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);">You can click the thumbs below for 800px large versions...</span><br /> <br /> <div style="text-align: center; clear: both; font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"><a linkindex="21" href="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2005/08/star_wars_etching/leftbig.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2005/08/star_wars_etching/leftthumb.jpg" alt="Case Engraving: Star Wars Final result" border="0" /></a> <a linkindex="22" href="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2005/08/star_wars_etching/rightbig.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2005/08/star_wars_etching/rightthumb.jpg" alt="Case Engraving: Star Wars Final result" border="0" /></a> <a linkindex="23" href="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2005/08/star_wars_etching/topbig.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2005/08/star_wars_etching/topthumb.jpg" alt="Case Engraving: Star Wars Final result" border="0" /></a></div><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);">So this was my latest project... I'm sure I'll be busting out the Dremel for some more action very soon! </span><br /> <br /><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"> If you're interested in the tools I used to complete this project, here's the run-down.</span><br /> <ul style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"><li> Dremel Multi Professional.<br /></li><li>Dremel Flexible shaft.<br /></li><li>Dremel Diamond engraving bits 7144 and 7134.<br /></li><li>Pelikan Plenticopy 200h carbon paper.<br /></li><li>Time, patience and coffee!</li></ul><br /><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"> A big thanks to </span><a style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);" linkindex="24" href="http://www.gtek.se/" target="_blank">Gtek.se</a><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"> for providing the case and making this project possible, you guys rock! </span><br /> <br /><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"> To everyone else i will just say.. Grab your Dremels and make some art!</span><br /> <br /><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"> [i]This article can be found in its original Swedish version at </span><a style="color: rgb(0, 0, 102); font-family: arial;" linkindex="25" href="http://www.sweclockers.com/" target="_blank">SweClockers.com</a><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);">. </span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03515312546652168657noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3637090899990191050.post-1860802602716615272009-03-25T08:27:00.002-07:002009-03-25T08:28:47.290-07:00USB hotplate cooks dinner<div style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102); text-align: center;" id="page-head"> <b>Author:</b> <!-- Author Start -->Brett Thomas<!-- Author End --><br /> <b>Published:</b> 18th September 2006 <div class="contribute"> <a linkindex="22" class="email" href="http://www.bit-tech.net/news/modding/2006/09/18/usb_hotplate_cooks_dinner/email#email" title="Email this article to a friend">Email to a friend</a> <a linkindex="23" class="stumble" href="http://www.stumbleupon.com/submit?url=http://www.bit-tech.net/news/modding/2006/09/18/usb_hotplate_cooks_dinner/1&title=USB%20hotplate%20cooks%20dinner" title="Stumble this article" target="_blank">Stumble</a> </div> </div><div style="text-align: center;"> <!-- /article header --> <!-- article body --> </div><div style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);" id="article-image"><div style="text-align: center;"> <img src="http://images.bit-tech.net/news_images/2006/09/usb_hotplate_cooks_dinner/article_img.jpg" alt="USB hotplate cooks dinner" height="250" width="300" /> </div><p>Six 5-port USB add-in cards plus coffee warmer = USB hotplate to cook dinner on. Only In Japan</p> </div> <!-- Article Start --><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"> Have you ever been excited about some new hardware you've bought, only to have a non-techie parent / friend / co-worker scoff dismissing your new toy? My favorite is that age-old rhetorical question, "Ah, but can it cook me dinner? Because at that price, it should..."</span><br /> <br /><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"> To one enterprising Japanese blogger, that answer is "Why yes, it can!" </span><br /> <br /><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"> He posts, following the humiliation of the failed </span><a style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);" linkindex="24" href="http://xe.bz/aho/17/" target="_blank">USB Fried Egg experiment</a><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);">, that he needed to take a leaf out of the Tim "The Toolman" Taylor Cookbook and go for...MORE POWER. 30 times more power to be precise - six PCI USB cards with five ports per card, for a total of 30 ports.</span><br /> <br /><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"> Take a regular USB coffee warmer (now pathetically tame in comparison), wire everything up with a bunch of resistors under the hotplate and we're cooking with </span><strike style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);">gas</strike><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"> USB!</span><br /> <br /><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"> The proof is in the </span><strike style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);">pudding</strike><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"> beef, as they say </span><i style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);">(Stop it! -Ed)</i><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);">... and by all accounts, it works a treat. He has even posted two videos where you can actually hear the beef sizzling! Naturally, it's a rather complex solution to a problem that doesn't </span><i style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);">actually</i><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"> exist...but as a "hey, why not?" project, it's definitely hot property. And it could be a handy pizza warmer at your next LAN event.</span><br /> <br /><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"> You can read the </span><a style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);" linkindex="25" href="http://xe.bz/aho/24/" target="_blank">original blog</a><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);">, or take your chances with </span><a style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);" linkindex="26" href="http://translate.google.com/translate?u=http%3A%2F%2Fxe.bz%2Faho%2F24%2F&langpair=ja%7Cen&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&prev=%2Flanguage_tools" target="_blank">Google Translate beta</a><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);">. Usually the image hosting for blogs like this fall over at the mere mention of a Digg or Slashdot so we have preserved the highlights below just in case.</span><br /> <br /><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"> Do you feel like Chicken Tonight? Discuss this </span><a style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);" linkindex="27" href="http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?t=120894">in our forums</a><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);">.</span><br /> <br /> <div style="text-align: center; clear: both; font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 102);"><img src="http://images.bit-tech.net/news_images/2006/09/usb_hotplate_cooks_dinner/usb1.jpg" alt="" border="0" /> <img src="http://images.bit-tech.net/news_images/2006/09/usb_hotplate_cooks_dinner/usb2.jpg" alt="" border="0" /><br /><img src="http://images.bit-tech.net/news_images/2006/09/usb_hotplate_cooks_dinner/usb2b.jpg" alt="" border="0" /> <img src="http://images.bit-tech.net/news_images/2006/09/usb_hotplate_cooks_dinner/usb3.jpg" alt="" border="0" /><br /><img src="http://images.bit-tech.net/news_images/2006/09/usb_hotplate_cooks_dinner/usb4.jpg" alt="" border="0" /> <img style="width: 365px; height: 274px;" src="http://images.bit-tech.net/news_images/2006/09/usb_hotplate_cooks_dinner/usb5.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03515312546652168657noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3637090899990191050.post-8833901149090433102009-03-25T08:27:00.001-07:002009-03-25T08:27:51.454-07:00Charge your AAs over USB<div style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" id="page-head"> <span style="font-size:100%;"><b>Author:</b> Gordon Kelly<br /><b>Published:</b> 21st September 2006 </span><!-- Author Start --><!-- Author End --> <div class="contribute"> <span style="font-size:100%;"><a linkindex="22" class="email" href="http://www.bit-tech.net/news/hardware/2006/09/21/Charge_your_AAs_over_USB/email#email" title="Email this article to a friend">Email to a friend</a> <a linkindex="23" class="stumble" href="http://www.stumbleupon.com/submit?url=http://www.bit-tech.net/news/hardware/2006/09/21/Charge_your_AAs_over_USB/1&title=Charge%20your%20AAs%20over%20USB" title="Stumble this article" target="_blank">Stumble</a></span> </div> </div> <!-- /article header --> <!-- article body --> <div style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);" id="article-image"> <span style="font-size:100%;"><img src="http://images.bit-tech.net/news_images/2006/09/Charge_your_AAs_over_USB/article_img.jpg" alt="Charge your AAs over USB" height="250" width="300" /></span> <p style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-size:100%;">USBCell AA batteries charge over USB!</span></p> </div> <!-- Article Start --><span style="font-family: arial; color: rgb(0, 0, 153);font-size:100%;" > I love innovation – who doesn’t? That said, my tastes lie specifically in the kind which make my life simpler and easier. We’re talking email over post, wireless over wired, LCD over CRT and potentially now ‘USBCell’ batteries over your traditional AAs.<br /><br />Released as a teaser to the IT press over a week ago with the tagline ‘Time to recharge the battery market’, the details are finally out and they are oh so logical yet very cool.<br /><br />Produced by Moixa Energy, USBCell batteries are simply batteries that recharge from any USB port. They require no separate recharging devices, cradles or cables and can be used exactly like a normal battery. The design itself is rather like a typical memory stick with its flip top lid and they could be set to deliver the same killer blow to the battery market that memory sticks did to floppy discs.<br /><br />USBCell batteries have a capacity of 1300mAH which is in line with most NiCd and NiMH batteries though some do go all the way up to 2500mAH. It takes five hours to charge a completely flat battery and an LED on the side will light up to indicate charging, flash for 10 minutes after charging is complete as an alert and switch off after that.<br /><br />Available now and costing just £12.99 for two AA USBCell batteries (including VAT and delivery from the company’s website) I’m forced to say something I never thought would pass my lips: I’m quite excited about batteries!<br /><br />You can grab the batteries from the <a linkindex="24" href="http://www.usbcell.com/" target="_blank">USBCell</a> website. Let us know your thoughts <a linkindex="25" href="http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?p=1331832">over in the forums!</a></span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03515312546652168657noreply@blogger.com0